37. Trussing is little required in butcher's meat; but loins, boned and stuffed, such as those of beef, mutton and pork, must of course be trussed. This is done by spreading the stuffing and seasoning over them, then rolling them up as tightly as possible, tying up with a tape or string, and securing all by skewers. The long flap of the fillet of veal must be filled with stuffing, and then secured as above directed.

39. In drawing poultry, or removing the entrails, a very small slit may be made under the vent with a penknife, at which slip in the fore-finger, and if there is any internal fat about the vent, draw it out, as it is in the way of taking out the entrails, and, if left in, would be very strong when roasted. Next get hold of the gizzard, which may be known by its being the hardest part of the interior; draw it out carefully; it will generally bring the whole of the intestines with it, but if the liver should be left, again slip in the finger and take hold of the heart, which will bring out with it the liver, which you must not touch for fear of bursting the gall-bladder. The heart is generally left in by poulterers, but it is much better out, as it is apt to give a bloody appearance to the interior of the fowl. Trim round the vent with a pair of scissors.

42. The legs of fowls intended to be roasted should be taken off about one inch below the first joint; the feet and legs of young chickens are generally left on, but they must be scalded in boiling water, and the claws and outside scaly skin taken off. Thrust the liver through a slit made in the skinny part of one pinion, and the gizzard through the other; then turn the top of the pinion over the back, lay the legs close to the sides; with a wire skewer fix the middle joint of the pinion outside of the knee joint of the leg, and so through the body to the other knee and pinion; with a short skewer fix the lower joint to the lower part of the body; then the feet, or whatever part of them is left, may turn back over the belly. The skewer for this purpose must go through the sidesmen, fixing the stumps or feet between them. For a fowl that is to be boiled, a slit is made on each side of the belly, and the leg-stump tucked in.

43. To remove the crop and windpipe of those whose heads are left on, open the skin a little just in front of the throat; then pull each separately gently, first from the beak or bill, then from the stomach. Fowls whose heads are taken off may have the crop removed by putting the finger down the throat. The windpipe is easily removed in the same way.

45. Ducks have the feet always left on, but the wings must be taken off at the middle joint; in doing this, leave more skin than belongs to the bone. The feet must be scalded, and the skin and claws taken away; they then must be turned over the back. In placing the skewers, keep the thigh joints outside of the pinions, and run the skewer through the leg, then through the bit of skin that hangs below the pinion, then through the body, the other pinion, skin, and the other leg. The short skewer must be inserted just above the joint, which is twisted to turn back the feet. Tie the skin round the throat; put in the seasoning at the vent and turn the rump through a small slit in the apron.

46. Geese are trussed exactly in the same way as ducks, except the feet are cut off, and dressed with the giblets. The liver is sometimes dressed separately, and considered by some persons a great delicacy. A piece of greased white paper should be laid over the breast, and secured with a string, not skewers, before a goose is put down to roast.

47. Turkeys are trussed the same way as fowls, but the sinews of the leg must be drawn out before trussing. The gizzard of a turkey intended to be roasted should be scored, and both gizzard and liver covered with the caul of veal or lamb; but buttered paper does as well, and is more generally used: this is to prevent them becoming dry. The breast should be secured in the same way, with a piece of buttered paper. Nicely clean the head, and twist it under the wing.

48. Pigeons should be cleaned with great care. For roasting, truss with the feet on; tie the joints close down the rump, and turn the feet over the front (see engraving). Most people season them. For [Trussed Pigeon for roasting.]An illustration of a trussed bird on a skewer. [Trussed Pheasant.]An illustration of a trussed bird on a skewer. boiling or stewing, cut off the feet, and truss just as fowls for boiling. For broiling, lay them open by cutting them down the back, and laying them flat. As pigeons have no gall, no extra care will be required with the liver.

49. Pheasants, Partridges, and Guinea Fowls, are trussed with the head tucked under the wing, and the feet on, which are twisted and tied to the rump, and turned back over the breast. The liver may be used in the stuffing.

50. Wild Ducks, and all other web-footed wild fowl, should have the feet left on, and be cleaned and trussed in the same manner a tame duck.

51. Woodcocks, Plovers, &c., and all other birds that live by suction, are not drawn; the feet are left on, the knees twisted round [Trussed Woodcock.]An illustration of a trussed bird on a skewer. each other, and raised over the breast, by which means each foot turns back and falls on the side of the rump.

52. Hare, trussed for roasting, has the legs turned back without disjointing, so that the haunches are thrown up, much in the form that a cat is often seen sitting--the end bones of the fore and hind legs meet each other, and lie side by side. Two skewers should be inserted, one where the end of the leg meets the fleshy part of the shoulder, and the other where the end of the shoulder meets the fleshy part of the leg; the head is fixed back with a skewer thrust [Trussed Hare.]An illustration of a trussed hare on three skewers. into the mouth, through the head, and into the back between the shoulders. The belly should be slit no more than is necessary for taking out the paunch. To secure its keeping in place, a string is employed for bracing it; the string is laid across the back, twisted round the end of both skewers, and brought back across the back and tied. In skinning hares and rabbits, particularly hares, the ears and tails should be preserved entire, as they improve the appearance of these dishes on the table, and are much esteemed.

53. Rabbits for boiling are opened all the way down the belly; joint the legs at the rump so as to admit of their turning along the sides; turn the shoulders back to meet them, so that the lower joints of each lie straight along, side by side; the head should be skewered down to the right shoulder. Rabbits for roasting are trussed like hares.

54. Fawns or Kids are generally trussed and dressed in the same way as hares. As the flesh is of a dry nature, they should be covered with a caul or buttered paper, which should be tied on, not skewered. Fawns will not keep above a day or two at the furthest.

55. Sucking Pigs, the moment they are killed, should be put into cold water for a few minutes. Some persons then rub them over with powdered resin: others object to this on account of the flavour of the resin, which the pig will retain, if not well washed. Put the pig for half a minute into a pail or pan of boiling water, and take it out and pull off the hair or bristles as quickly as possible. If any should remain, put it again into hot water; when quite free from hair, wash it thoroughly with warm water, and then rinse it several times in cold water, that no flavour of the resin may remain. The feet should be taken off at the first joint: then make a slit down the belly and remove the entrails; once more wash the pig inside and out in cold water, and wrap it in a wet cloth till you are ready to dress it, which should be done as soon as possible. Fill the belly with seasoning, and sew it up; skewer back the legs, and the trussing is completed. The feet, heart, liver, lights, and melt, are to be dressed separately, when well cleaned. This dish is called pig's pettitoes.

66. Clear Gravy Soups.--Cut half a pound of ham into slices, and lay them at the bottom of a large stew-pan, or stock pot, with two or three pounds of veal and the same weight of lean beef; break the bones and lay them on the meat; pare two turnips and skin two large onions; wash clean, and cut into pieces two large carrots, two heads of celery; put in a large blade of mace, and three cloves; cover the stew-pan close, and set it over a clear fire; when the meat begins to stick at the bottom of the stew-pan, turn it, and when there is a nice brown glaze at the bottom of the stew-pan cover the meat with hot water; put in half a pint when it is coming to a boil; take off the scum, and put in half a pint more of cold water; then skim it again, and continue to do so till no more scum rises: now set it on one side of the fire to boil gently for four hours; strain through a clean tamis (do not squeeze it, or the soup will be thick) into a clean stone pan; let it remain till it is cold, then remove all the fat; when you bottle it, be careful not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the pan. The broth should be of a fine amber colour, and very clear. If it is not quite as bright as you wish it, put it into a stew-pan; break two whites and the shells of eggs, mix well together and put them into the soup, set it on a quick fire, and stir it with a whisk till it boils, then set it on one side till it settles; run it through a fine napkin; then it is ready. If you skim your broth carefully as directed above, it will be clear enough; clarifying it impairs the flavour.--Observe. This is the basis of almost all gravy soups, which are called by the name of the vegetables that are put into them: carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a few leaves of chervil, make what is called spring soup; to this a pint of green peas, or asparagus, or French beans cut into pieces, or a cabbage lettuce, is an improvement. With rice, Scotch barley, or vermicelli, maccaroni or celery, cut into lengths, it will be the soup usually called by those names. Or turnips scooped, round or young onions, will give you a clear turnip or onion soup. The roots and vegetables used must be boiled first, or they will impregnate the soup with too strong a flavour. Seasoning for those soups is the same, viz. salt, and a very little cayenne pepper.

67. Ox Tail Soup.--Take three or four ox tails; divide at the joints; well wash, and soak them. Put them on the fire; to each tail allow a quart of water; when they boil, take off all the scum. If four tails add four onions, and eight or ten corns of allspice and black pepper to each tail. Simmer it slowly till the meat on the bones is tender. Then take out the tails, scrape off all the meat and cut it small; strain the soup through a sieve. To thicken it, take two ounces of butter, and as much flour as it will take up; mix it well with the whole, and let it simmer another half hour. If not perfectly smooth, it must be strained again; then put in the meat, with a glass of wine, a table-spoonful of mushroom catsup, a little cayenne, and salt to taste; simmer it again a few minutes. Or instead of thickening the soup, the meat may be returned to the gravy and warmed again, with or without the addition of carrots and turnips.

68. Hotch-potch.--Take lamb or mutton chops, and stew them in good gravy, with the addition of almost every kind of vegetable. A summer hotch-potch is composed of young onions, carrots, asparagus, green peas, lettuce, turnips, spinach, and parsley; a winter one is composed of full-grown turnips cut small, old carrots cut small or grated, celery and onions sliced, dried peas--the green or blue sort are the best colours for this purpose. The peas will take much longer boiling than either meat or green vegetables. Put them in the liquor boiling, and let them boil an hour before the addition of meat, and the other vegetables. The proportion is four pounds of meat to a gallon of stock, and two quarts of vegetables. Boil the meat and vegetables between two and three hours, slow boiling, with the lid on. If you add green peas or asparagus tops among the vegetables, keep out nearly all of them till within half an hour of sending them to table; then let them boil fast till tender. Season with salt and pepper, and serve all together. Some people make it of brisket of beef, and add a bunch of sweet herbs. The beef will require stewing longer. A leg of beef, cut in pieces, and stewed six or seven hours, with carrots and the other ingredients, makes very good soup. A little small beer is an improvement to all brown soups.

69. Fish Broth.--Thick-skinned fish, and those which have glutinous, jelly-like substances, are the best. The liquor which eels have been boiled in is good enough of itself, as they require but little water. The liquor in which turbot or cod has been boiled, boil again, with the addition of the bones. If purposely made, small eels, or grigs, or flat fish, as flounders, soles, plaice or dabs, or the finny parts of cod, will do for the purpose. A pound of fish to three pints of water; add peppercorns, a large handful of parsley, and an onion; and boil till reduced to half. A spoonful of catsup, or vinegar, is an improvement. This broth is very nourishing and easy of digestion; but for a sick person, leave out the catsup or vinegar.

70. Cock-a-leeky Soup.--Take a small knuckle of veal, and a large fowl, or a scrag of mutton instead of veal. An old fowl will do. Add three or four large leeks, cut in pieces of half an inch long. Simmer in three quarts of good broth for an hour. Then add as many more leeks, and season with pepper and salt. Let it boil three-quarters of an hour longer, and serve all together. The leeks which are put in first, is with the intention of thickening the soup; and those which are put in last, should retain their form and substance.

71. Scotch Brose, or Crowdy.--Take half a pint of oatmeal; put it before the fire, and frequently turn it till it is perfectly dry and of a light brown. Take a ladle-full of boiling water, in which fat meat has been boiled, and stir it briskly to the oatmeal, still adding more liquor till it is brought to the thickness desired, which is about that of a stiff batter; a little salt and pepper may be added, if the liquor with which it was made was not salt. Kale brose is the same thing, but with the addition of greens, cut small, and boiled in the liquor.

72. Pease Soup.--Put a quart of split peas to three quarts of boiling water, not more (Dr. Kitchiner says cold water,) with half a pound of bacon, not very fat, or roast beef bones, or four anchovies; or, instead of water, the liquor in which beef, mutton, pork or poultry, has been boiled; it will be very much better, but taste the liquor, as it must not be too salt. Wash two heads of celery, cut small (half a drachm of celery seed, pounded fine, and put into the soup, a quarter of an hour before it is finished, will flavour three quarts,) two onions peeled, and a sprig of savoury, or sweet marjoram, or lemon thyme. Let it simmer very gently, stirring it every quarter of an hour, to keep the peas from sticking to or burning at the bottom of the pot. Simmer till the peas are tender, which will be in about three hours. Some cooks now slice a head of celery and half an ounce of onions, and fry them in a little batter, and put them into the soup, till it is lightly browned; then work the whole through a coarse hair sieve, and then through a fine sieve, or through a tamis, with the back of a wooden spoon; then put it into a clean stew-pan, with a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper; let it boil again for ten minutes, and if any fat arises skim it off. Send up on a plate some toasted bread, cut into little pieces, an inch square; or cut a slice of bread (that has been baked two days) into dice, not more than half an inch square; put half a pound of quite clean dripping, or lard, into an iron frying-pan; when it is hot fry the bread; take care to turn the bread with a slice, that it may be of a delicate brown on both sides; take it up with a fish-slice, and lay it on a sheet of paper to drain the fat; be careful that this is done nicely. Send them up in one side dish, and dried and powdered mint, or savoury, in another. The most economical method of making pease soup, is to save the bones of a joint of roast beef, and put them into the liquor in which mutton, or beef, or pork, or poultry, has been boiled, and proceed as in the first receipt. A hock or shank bone of ham, a ham bone, the root of a tongue, or a red or pickled herring, are favourite additions with some people; others send up rice or vermicelli with pease soup. Pease soup may be made savoury and agreeable to the palate, without any meat, by putting two ounces of fresh and nicely clarified beef, mutton, or pork dripping, with two ounces of oatmeal, and mix this well into a gallon of soup prepared with the peas and vegetables, according to the first receipt, or in water alone.

73. Pease Soup and Pickled Pork.--Take two pounds of pickled pork, which will make very good broth for pease soup; if the pork is too salt, put it in water on the over-night. The pork should not be in salt more than two days. Put on the articles, mentioned in the first receipt, in three quarts of water; boil these gently for two hours; then put in the pork, and boil gently for an hour and a half, or two hours, according to the thickness of the pork; when done, wash the pork clean in some hot water; send it up in a dish, or cut it into little pieces, and put them into the tureen, with the toasted bread, &c., or as in the first receipt. The meat being boiled no longer than to be done enough to eat, you can get excellent soup without the expense of any other meat.

74. Plain Pease Soup.--To a quart of split peas, and two heads of celery, and a large onion, put three quarts of broth, or soft water; let them simmer gently over a slow fire for three hours. Stir them up every quarter of an hour, to prevent the peas sticking at the bottom of the pot, and burning.

75. Spanish Soup.--Take about three pounds of beef, off the leg or shin, with or without the bone--if with the bone, well crack it--a pound of knuckle of ham, or gammon. More than cover them with water, and when it boils skim it, and add a tea-spoonful of pepper. The ham will probably make it sufficiently salt--if not, add a little. Let this simmer by the side of the fire until it is three parts done, which will take two hours and a half. And then well wash some cabbage plants, or small summer cabbage; cut these into small pieces, also onions cut small; a tea-cup full of rice, with a bit of eschalot; put these in the saucepan, and let it simmer a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, until the rice is boiled enough. Then take it from the fire; separate the meat, vegetables, and rice, from the soup, and eat the soup before the meat. Separate the meat from the bones, and mix it with the vegetables. If the plants are too strong, scald them before putting them in the saucepan. In the summer, a few young peas make a great improvement. Leeks are better than onions, as you can have more in quantity of vegetables. The Spaniards use garlic. This will dine a family of seven or eight people.

76. Chicken Broth.--Chicken bones, and the heads and feet, make a basin of good broth, provided the fowls have been boiled, and the liquor used instead of water. The heads and feet of four fowls may be boiled in a quart of water, with the addition of an onion and a blade of mace, a little pepper and salt. Chicken broth may be enriched by the addition of a knuckle bone of veal, a bit of beef, or three or four shank bones of mutton.

77. Mutton Broth.--Scrags of mutton, or sheeps' heads, make a very good family dinner. Two or three scrags of mutton, or two sheeps' heads, may be put on in a two-gallon pot; when it boils, skim it well, then add six ounces of Scotch or pearl barley, or rice; let it boil an hour or more; then add eight or ten turnips, three or four carrots, cut up, and four or five onions. Half an hour before serving, put in a few small suet dumplings, a little parsley, and a few marigold blossoms. This broth should boil two hours and a half, or three hours. The knuckle of a shoulder of mutton answers very well in this manner. Serve the meat on a separate dish, and the broth, dumplings, and vegetables, all together in a large tureen.

78. Mutton Chop Broth.--Cut the chops from a neck or loin of mutton; cut as much as is required into thin chops; put them in a stew-pan, with an onion or two, a little salt, and cold water enough to cover them. Skim well when it boils, and let it stew slowly three-quarters of an hour, or an hour. Turnips may be boiled in this liquor, or boiled separately, and mashed. Serve the broth and meat together. In broth intended for invalids, the vegetables and spice should be left out.

79. Soup and Bouilli.--For the bouilli, roll five pounds of brisket of beef tight with a tape, put it into a stew-pan; four pounds of the leg of beef; about seven or eight quarts of water; boil these up quick; scum it; add one large onion, six or seven cloves, some whole pepper, two or three carrots, a turnip or two, a leek, two heads of celery; stew them very gently, closely covered, for six or seven hours; about an hour before dinner, strain the soup through a piece of flannel (put the rough side upwards,) or a hair sieve; have ready boiled carrots and turnips sliced, spinach, a little chervil, and sorrel, two heads of endive, one or two of celery, cut in pieces. Put the soup into a tureen. The carrots and turnips in separate dishes; add a little salt and cayenne to the soup. Take the tape from the bouilli very carefully, and serve in a dish. A leg or shin of beef, with a piece of fat beef, will answer the purpose.

80. A Cheap Soup.--Two pounds of lean beef, six onions, six potatoes (parboiled,) one carrot, one turnip, half a pint of split peas, four quarts of water, some whole pepper, a head of celery, a red herring; when boiled, rub through a coarse sieve, add spinach and celery boiled, dried mint, and fried bread.

81. Veal Soup.--Cut the meat off in thin slices; put the meat in a large jug or jar; put to it a bunch of sweet herbs, half an ounce of almonds, blanched, and beat fine; pour on it four quarts of boiling water; cover it close, and let it stand all night by the fire; the next day, put it into an earthen vessel; let it stew very slowly till it is reduced to two quarts; take off the scum as it rises while boiling, and let it stand to settle; then pour it clear off, and put it into a clean saucepan; mix with three ounces of either boiled rice or vermicelli.

82. Calf's Head Soup.--Take a calf's head, wash it clean, stew it with a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, mace, pearl barley, and Jamaica pepper; when it is very tender, put to it some stewed celery; season it with pepper; and serve it with the head in the middle.

83. Giblet Soup.--The most economical way is to take a pound or two of beef skirts, or of knuckle of veal; cut it into pieces two or three inches square; a set of goose giblets, or four sets of ducks', or the head, neck, and feet, of a turkey or two, or of six or eight fowls; all of these are good, either separate or together. Clean them well, split the heads, cut the gizzards across, crack the pinions and feet bones. Put all together into a stew-pan, with an ounce of butter, the red part of two or three carrots cut up, two or three onions sliced, and a clove or two of eschalots. Shake it over a clear slow fire a few minutes, to draw the gravy, then add water or broth enough to cover the whole; let it simmer two hours or more, then season with salt and pepper, and a large spoonful of catsup, and serve all together. It may be thickened with rice or barley, which should be added as soon as it boils.--A more expensive way: Prepare the giblets as above and set them on with good gravy, enough to cover them; tie in a muslin bag an onion or two, a small bundle of sweet herbs, a few leaves of sweet basil, and twenty corns of allspice, the same of black pepper. Let it simmer till the giblets are tender, then take them out and cover up close while you thicken the gravy; remove also the bag of spice and herbs. Make some force meat balls as follows: when the livers are done enough to chop fine, take them out or part of them, pound them fine with half their weight in butter, and the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs; season with salt, cayenne, nutmeg, sage, and onions, scalded and chopped very fine, and also a leaf or two of sweet basil. Mix with half a tea-cup full of bread crumbs, wet with the yolk of an egg, and make up into little balls with a little flour. Having removed the giblets, thicken the soup with butter and flour, and when it boils add the balls; let them simmer a quarter of an hour, then add a glass of wine, a large table-spoonful of catsup, and the juice of half a Seville orange or lemon. Put in the giblets to warm through, and it is ready.

84. Kitchiner's cheap Soup.--Wash in cold water four ounces of Scotch barley, and put into five quarts of water, with four ounces of sliced onions; boil gently one hour, and pour it into a pan; then put into a saucepan from one to two ounces of fresh beef or mutton dripping. Dripping for this purpose should be taken out of the pan as fast as it drips from the meat; if suffered to remain in the pan it is apt to become rancid. If no dripping is at hand, melted suet will do, or two or three ounces of fat bacon minced fine. When melted in the saucepan, stir into it four ounces of oatmeal, and rub them together until they become a soft paste. Then add, by degrees, a spoonful at a time, the barley broth, stirring it well together till it boils. For seasoning, put in a tea-cup or basin a drachm of celery or cress seed, or half a drachm of each, and a quarter of a drachm of cayenne, finely powdered, or a drachm and a half of black pepper finely powdered, or half allspice; mix them smooth with a little of the soup; then stir it into the rest; simmer it gently another quarter of an hour, season with salt, and it is ready. The flavour may be varied by any variety of herbs, or thickening with garlic or eschalot instead of celery; a larger portion of onions, or carrots and turnips, or rice, or paste, instead of oatmeal or barley.

85. Soup Maigre.--Divide two or three heads of celery, two large carrots, three or four moderate-sized turnips, some onions, two young lettuces, a handful of spinach leaves, and a little sorrel. Cut the worst half of the vegetables in small pieces, and put them into the stew-pan with three ounces of butter; let them fry till the vegetables are brown and the butter absorbed; put a gallon of boiling water into the pan; when it boils fast, skim it well, stir in a little flour, and add some stale crust of bread; put in two dozen of black peppers, and the same of allspice, with two or three blades of mace; let it simmer for an hour and a half, then set it aside for a quarter of an hour, then strain it off very gently, so as not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the stew-pan, which clean. When the soup has stood two hours, pour it back again, avoiding to disturb any sediment, if any should escape from the first draining. Cut up the remainder of the vegetables and boil them in water five minutes, then drain them, and when the soup again boils, add them to it, and let it simmer till they are tender, which will be about three-quarters of an hour; season with salt, cayenne, and a table-spoonful of catsup. If green peas are in season, the liquor in which they have been boiled, added to the soup, is a great improvement.

86. Mock Turtle.--Have the head and broth ready for the soup the day before it is to be eaten; it will take eight hours to prepare it properly. Get the calf's head with the skin on, the fresher the better, take out the brains and wash the head several times in cold water, let it soak in spring water for an hour, then lay it in the stew-pan, cover it with cold water, and half a gallon over; as it becomes warm a great deal of scum will rise, which must be immediately removed; let it boil gently for one hour, then take it up. When almost cold cut the head into pieces about an inch and a half long and an inch and a quarter broad; the tongue into mouthfuls, or rather make a side dish of the tongue and brains. When the head is taken out, put in about five pounds of knuckle of veal, and as much beef; add to the stock all the trimmings and bones of the head; skim it well, then cover it close, let it boil five hours; reserve two quarts of this to make gravy sauce, then strain it off and let it stand till the next morning; then take off the fat, put a large stew-pan on the fire, with half a pound of good fresh butter, twelve ounces of onions sliced, four ounces of green sage chopped; let these fry one hour; rub in half a pound of flour by degrees, add your broth till it is the thickness of cream; season it with a quarter of an ounce of ground allspice and half an ounce of black pepper, ground very fine, salt to your taste add the rind of one lemon peeled very thin; let it simmer very gently for one hour and a half, then strain it through a hair sieve, do not rub your soup to get it through the sieve or it will make it grouty; if it do not run through easily, knock a wooden spoon against the side of the sieve; put it into a clean stew-pan with the head, and season by adding, to each gallon of soup, half a pint of wine, Madeira, or claret if you wish it dark; two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice, the same of catsup, one of essence of anchovy, a tea-spoonful of curry powder, or a quarter of a drachm of cayenne, the peel of a lemon pared very thin. Let it simmer gently till the meat is tender; this may take from half an hour to an hour; take care that it is not over-done; stir it frequently to prevent the meat sticking to the bottom of the stew-pan; when the meat is quite done, take out the lemon peel, and the soup is ready. Serve with force meat stuffing, or balls.

87. Carrot Soup.--Wash and scrape six large carrots, peel off the red outside (which is the only part used for this soup), put it into a gallon stew-pan, with one head of celery, and an onion cut into thin pieces; take two quarts of veal, beef, or mutton broth, put the broth to the roots, cover the stew-pan close, and set it on a slow stove for two hours and a half, when the carrots will be soft enough; put in a tea-cup full of bread crumbs, boil for two or three minutes, rub it through a tamis, or hair sieve, with a wooden spoon, add broth, and make it nearly as thick as pease soup; season it with a little salt, and send it up with some toasted bread, cut into pieces half an inch square. The celery and onions should be sliced and fried in butter, or nicely clarified dripping, and then put in the stew-pan and the broth added to it. Or thus: Put some beef bones with four quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or beef has been boiled, two large onions, a turnip, pepper and salt, into a stew-pan, and stew for three hours; have ready six large carrots scraped, and cut thin; strain the soup on them, stew them till soft enough to pulp through a hair sieve, or a coarse cloth; then boil the pulp with the soup, which is to be as thick as pease soup. Make the soup the day before it is to be used; add cayenne. Pulp only the red part of the carrot, and not the yellow. The soup is better made with a shin of beef.

88. Curry or Mulligatawny Soup.--Cut four pounds of a breast of veal into pieces about two inches long and one inch broad; put the trimmings into a stew-pan with two quarts of water, with twelve corns of black pepper, and the same of allspice; when it boils skim it clean, and let it boil an hour and a half; then strain it off; while it is boiling, fry of a nice brown in butter the bits of veal, and four onions; when they are done put the broth to them, put it on the fire; when it boils skim it clean, let it simmer half an hour, then mix two spoonfuls of curry, and the same of flour, with a little cold water, and a tea-spoonful of salt; add these to the soup, and simmer it till the veal is quite tender, and it is ready; or bone a couple of fowls or rabbits, and stew them the same as veal, and you may put in a bruised eschalot, and some mace and ginger, instead of black pepper and allspice. The fowls and rabbits should be cut into joints, and fried of a nice brown in some batter.

89. Eel Soup.--To make a tureen full, take two middling sized onions, cut them in half, and cross your knife over them two or three times; put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, put in the onions, stir them in the pan till they are of a light brown; cut into pieces three pounds of unskinned eels, put them into your stew-pan, and shake them over the fire for five minutes; then add three quarts of boiling water, and when they boil, take the scum off very clean, and then put in a quarter of an ounce of the green leaves (not dried) of winter savoury, the same of lemon-thyme, and twice the quantity of parsley, two drachms of allspice, the same of black pepper; cover it close, and let it boil gently for two hours, skim it clean and strain it off. To thicken it, put three ounces of butter into a clean stew-pan; when it is melted stir in as much flour as will make it of a thick paste, then add the liquid by degrees, let it simmer for ten minutes, and pass it through a sieve, then put your soup on in a clean stew-pan, and have ready some little square pieces of fried fish of nice light brown--either eels, soles, plaice, or skate, will do, the fried fish should be added about ten minutes before the soup is served up. Force meat balls are sometimes added. Excellent fish-soup may be made of cod's head, or skate, or flounders, boiled in no more water than will cover them, and the liquor thickened with oatmeal, &c.

90. Gourd Soup should be made of full-grown gourds, but not those that have hard skins; slice three or four, and put them into a stew-pan with two or three onions and a good bit of butter, set them over a slow fire till quite tender, be careful not to let them burn; then add two ounces of crust of bread, and two quarts of good consommé, season with salt and cayenne pepper; boil ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, skim off all the fat, and pass it through a tamis when quite hot. Serve up with fried bread.

91. Game Soup.--In the game season it is easy to make very good soup at a little expense, by taking all the meat off the breasts of any cold birds that have been left on the preceding day, and pound it in a mortar; beat to pieces the legs and bones, and boil in some broth for an hour; boil six turnips, and mash them and strain them through a tamis cloth, with the meat that has been pounded in a mortar; strain your broth and put a little of it at a time into the tamis to help you to strain all of it through. Put your soup kettle near the fire, but do not let it boil. When ready to dish your dinner, have six yolks or eggs mixed with half a pint of cream, then strain it through a sieve; put your soup on the fire, and as it is coming to boil, put in the eggs, and stir it well with a wooden spoon. Do not let it boil, or it will curdle.

92. Turnip and Parsnip Soups are made the same as carrot soup.

93. Celery Soup.--Split six heads of celery into slips about two inches long; wash them well, lay them on a hair sieve to drain, and put them into three quarts of gravy soup in a gallon soup pot; set it by the side of the fire to stew very gently till the celery is tender--this will take about an hour; if any scum rises, take it off. Season it with a little salt. When celery cannot be procured, half a drachm of the seed pounded fine may be considered as the essence of celery, which may be had very cheap, and can be bought at any season; put this in about a quarter of an hour before the soup is done, and a little sugar will give as much flavour to half a gallon of soup as two heads of celery--or add a little essence of celery.

94. Lamb Stew.--Take a lamb's head and lights, and wash them; remove all the bones and skin from the nose, put them in the pot with some beef stock made with three quarts of water and two pounds of shin of beef, strained; boil very slowly for an hour, wash and string two or three good handfuls of spinach, put it in twenty minutes before serving, add one or two onions and a little parsley a short time before it comes off the fire; season with salt and pepper, and it is ready. Serve all together in a tureen.

95. Hare, Rabbit, or Partridge Soup.--When hares and rabbits and other game are too tough to eat (in the ordinary way of cooking,) they will make very good soup. Cut off the legs and shoulders of a hare, divide the body crossways, and stew very gently in three quarts of water, with one carrot, about one ounce of onions, two blades of pounded mace, four cloves, twenty-four black peppers, and a bundle of sweet herbs; stew it till the hare is tender. Most cooks add to the above two slices of ham or bacon, and a bay leaf, but the hare makes sufficiently savoury soup without this addition. The time this will take depends upon the age and time it has been kept before it is dressed; as a general rule, about three hours. Make a dozen and a half of force meat balls, as big as nutmegs. When hare is tender, take the meat off the back and upper joints of the legs; cut it into mouthfuls, and put on one side; cut the rest of the meat off the legs, shoulders, &c., mince it and pound it in a mortar with an ounce of butter, and two or three table-spoonfuls of flour moistened with a little soup; rub this through a hair sieve, and put it into the soup to thicken it; let it simmer for half an hour longer, skim it well, and put it through the tamis in the pan again; put the meat in, a glass of port or claret wine, with a table-spoonful of currant jelly to each quart of soup. Season it with salt; put in the force meat balls, and when all is hot, the soup is ready.

96. Portable Soup.--The fresher the meat is from which this article is made the better. Shins or legs of beef answer very well, and you may add trimmings of fresh meat, poultry, or game, and the liquor in which a leg of mutton, or a knuckle of veal, has been boiled. No salt, on any account, must be used. If you have a digester, it should be used for this article, in preference to a closely covered stew-pan, but the latter will do. Just cover the meat with cold liquor, and let an hour at least be occupied in coming to boil. Skim it, and throw in cold water two or three times, for the purpose of throwing up the scum, which must be carefully removed. When thoroughly cleared of the scum, close the vessel, and let it boil for eight or ten hours. Strain through a hair sieve into an earthenware pan, and let the liquor cool. The meat will do for potting. Every particle of fat must be removed from the top, and the gravy put into a well-tinned copper stew-pan, taking care that the sediment is separated from it; put in two drachms of whole black pepper, and let it boil briskly with the lid off over a quick fire. The scum, if any, should of course be removed. When it becomes very thick, and is reduced to about a quart, put it into a smaller stew-pan, set it over a gentle fire, and let it simmer till reduced to the consistence of very thick syrup. It must now be watched every moment. Take out a few drops on a cold spoon or plate; if it soon sets into a stiff jelly, it is done enough. If not, boil it a little longer till it does. Have ready some small pots with lids, such as are used for potting meat; or it may be poured out on a large flat dish, so as to be a quarter of an inch deep; when cold, turn it out, and, with a paste cutter, divide into squares of half an ounce or an ounce each. Or pour it into the round parts of basins or cups turned upside down. Put them in a warm room, and turn them frequently for eight or ten days, then they will be thoroughly dry and hardened like glue. Put them in a tin box, or a glass case, in a dry place, and they will keep for years. If at any time the surface appears mouldy, wipe it off, or the taste will penetrate the mass. The chief use of this article is in country places, or at sea, where fresh meat cannot be obtained. A basin of broth, soup or gravy of any strength, may be had in five minutes, by dissolving one or more of these cakes in boiling water; any flavouring ingredients may be added at pleasure. See Flavouring.

97. Green Turtle Soup.--This recipe has been collated from the best authorities, to which is added our own experience. The day before you wish to serve up the soup it will be necessary to cut off the head of your turtle, and place it in a position to allow all the blood to be drained from it. The next morning open the turtle, being careful to do so without breaking the gall. After cutting all around the upper and lower shell, drain the water off, divide the meat in small pieces, and wash clean and carefully. Then put the shells in a large pot of boiling water, where you let them remain until you find they separate from the flesh readily; but no longer, as the softer parts must be boiled again. Keep the liquor and stew the bones thoroughly; after which it is to be used for moistening the broth. The flesh of the interior parts, and the four legs and head, must be cooked in the following manner. Mask the bottom of a large stew-pan with slices of ham, over which lay two or three knuckles of veal, according to the size of the turtle; and over the veal place the inside flesh of the turtle, covering the whole with the other parts of the turtle. Add to it about a gallon of the liquor in which the bones were stewed, and place on the fire until thoroughly done, which you must ascertain by sticking your knife into the fleshy part of the meat; and if no blood issue from it, add another gallon of the liquor. Then throw in a bunch of the stalks of sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, bay leaves, savoury, common thyme, and sweet basil; also a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion stuck with cloves, and a few grains of pepper. Let the whole stew until thoroughly done, say from three to four hours. The leaves of the herbs are to be used for making a sauce, to be described hereafter. When the larger portions of the turtle are done, place them aside to be used when wanted. When the flesh is also thoroughly done, drain on a dish, and make a white thickening very thin, and add to it through a tamis some portion of the liquor of the bones, and place on the fire until it boils; and, having arrived at the proper consistency, neither too thick nor too thin, set the stew-pan on the side of the stove, and skim off all the white scum and fat that arises to the surface. Then cut the softer parts--green fat and white meat--into dice of about an inch square (without any waste,) and add to the sauce, which must be allowed to simmer gently until sufficiently done, when it must be taken off, at the same time skimming it carefully. Then take the leaves of the sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, common thyme and winter savoury, together with a handful of parsley, some green onions, a large onion cut in four pieces, with a few leaves of mace; put the whole in a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter. Let this simmer on a slow fire until melted, and add a bottle of Madeira and a small lump of sugar, and boil gently for an hour. Then rub it through a tamis, and add to your sauce, which you must boil until no white scum arises; then with a skimmer drain out all the bits of turtle, and put them into a clean stew-pan, and pass the sauce through a tamis into the stew-pan containing the turtle, and proceed as follows. Take out the fleshy part of a leg of veal, say about one pound, scrape off all the meat without leaving any of the fat or sinews in it, and soak in about the same quantity (one pound) of crumbs of bread, which, when well soaked, squeeze and put into a mortar with the veal, a small quantity of calf's udder, a little butter, the yolks of four eggs hard boiled, a little cayenne pepper, salt and spices, and pound the whole very fine. Then thicken the mixture with two whole eggs, and the yolk of a third; and, to try its consistency, put it in boiling hot water; if you find it too thin, add the yolk of another egg. When it is perfected, take one half of it, and add some chopped parsley. Cook it and roll into balls the size of the yolk of an egg; poach them in boiling water with a little salt. The other half must be made also into balls, and place the whole on a sieve to drain. Before serving your soup, squeeze the juice of two or three lemons, with a little cayenne pepper, and pour it into the soup. The fins may be served as a side dish, with a little turtle sauce. When lemon juice is used, be careful that the lemons are good; a musty lemon will spoil all the turtle, and too much will destroy its flavour.

98. Irish Stew.--Take two pounds of potatoes; peel and slice, and parboil, and throw away the water; rather more than two pounds of mutton chops, either from the loin or neck; part of the fat should be taken off; beef two pounds, six large onions sliced, a slice of ham, or lean bacon, a spoonful of pepper, and two of salt. This stew may be done in a stew-pan over the fire, or in a baker's oven, or in a close covered earthen pot. First put a layer of potatoes, then a layer of meat and onions, sprinkle the seasoning, then a layer of potatoes, and again the meat and onions and seasoning; the top layer should be potatoes, and the vessel should be quite full. Then put in half a pin of good gravy, and a spoonful of mushroom catsup. Let the whol stew for an hour and a half; be very careful it does not burn.

99. First Stock, or Beef Broth, &c.--Wash a leg or shin of beef very clean; let the butcher crack the bone in two or three places, and take out the marrow; add meat trimmings, and heads, necks, gizzards, feet, &c., of game and poultry; cover them with cold water; watch and stir up well, and the moment the simmering commences skim it very clear of all the scum. Then add some cold water, which will make the remaining scum rise, and skim it again. No fat should enter into the composition of broth of this description, nor indeed of any other, unless incorporated with meal by way of thickening. Stock should be quite clear and limpid. When the surface of the broth is quite clear, put in carrots, turnips, celery, and onions, according to the quantity. Some persons direct one moderate sized carrot, a head of celery, two turnips, and two onions. But this is a very poor criterion as to the quantity which ought to be used of these vegetables, which differ so much in size. No taste of sweet herbs, spice, &c., should be given to the stock. After the vegetables are added, cover it close, and set it by the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently, not wasting the broth, for four or five hours, or more, according to the weight of the meat. Strain through a sieve into a clean, dry stone pan, and put it in a cold place, for use. This is the basis for all sorts of soup and sauce, whether brown or white. The meat may be used for immediate food, or for making potted beef--that is, if it be not overdone to rags.

100. The following method has been adopted in the kitchen of the reviser for several years past, and is inserted as being more concise than the English plan:--Put in a large boiler, of the capacity of six or seven gallons, two large skins of beef; a small piece of the rump of about five pounds; five gallons of water, and two handsful of salt; place the pot on the fire, and before it commences to boil, and whilst boiling, skim it carefully and frequently, adding a little cold water to bring up the scum completely. When you find no more scum rising to the top, add three large carrots, three turnips, and three onions with six cloves stuck in them (that is, two cloves in each onion), and let it boil for four or five hours. Before using it, skim all the fat off the top, and strain it through a double sieve. If the beef is to be used, let it be taken out of the pot when cooked, and pour over it a little of the top of the broth, to keep it moist until it may be wanted, when you can serve it with such sauce as you may fancy. For a family it will be necessary to make the broth about once a week, but great care should be taken to keep a portion always on hand.

101. Second Stock may be made from the meat left after straining the first stock off, by covering it with water, and by letting it go on boiling for four or five hours. This stock will produce good glaze, or portable soup (see 316).

102. Glaze is a strong gravy boiled as quick as possible till it thickens, as directed in braising (see 316).

103. Beef Gravy, sometimes called second stock, or in French jus de bœuf, is thus made:--Take a slice of good lean ham, or lean bacon, four or five pounds of gravy beef, cut into eight or ten pieces, a carrot, an onion with two cloves stuck in it, and a head of celery. Cover the bottom of a clean well-tinned stew-pan with these things, putting in the ham first, and then put a pint of stock, or water; cover close; set over a moderate fire till the water is so reduced as to just save the ingredients from burning, then turn it all about and let it brown slightly and equally all over. You must put in three quarts of boiling water just at the moment the meat has obtained its proper colour; if it is suffered to burn, the gravy will have a bad taste, and if the water is put in too soon the gravy will want flavour. When it boils up, skim carefully and clean the sides of the stew-pan with a cloth. The gravy ought to be delicately clean and clear. Set it by the side of a fire, and stew gently for about four hours; strain through a tamis sieve, skim it carefully, and put it in a cold place. If well managed, that is, not boiled too fast, it will yield two quarts of good gravy.

104. Gravy for Roast Meat.--Take the trimmings off the joint you are about to cook, which will make half a pint of plain gravy. Colour by adding a few drops of burnt sugar. If you do not wish to make gravy in this way, about half an hour before the meat is done mix a salt-spoonful of salt with a full quarter of a pint of boiling water: drop this by degrees on the brown parts of the meat, set a dish under to catch it, and set it by; the meat will soon brown again. When the gravy you have made is cold take the fat from the surface, and when the meat is done, warm up the gravy and put it in the dish. Or you may make good browning for roast meat by saving the brown bits of boiling or roast meat: cut them small, put them into a basin and cover them with boiling water, and put them away; next put them into a saucepan and boil two or three minutes, then strain it through a sieve, and put by for use. When you want gravy for use put two table-spoonsful in a quarter of a pint of boiling water, with a little salt. If for roasted veal, put three table-spoonsful into half a pint of thin melted butter. The gravy which remains in the dish after the family has dined should be put by to enrich hashes or little made dishes.

105. Gravy for Boiled Meat is nothing more than a tea-cup full of the liquor in which the meat has been boiled, carefully skimmed and free from fat.

106. Gravy for Roast Veal.--Make in the same way as for any other roast meat, and make a tea-cup full of thick melted butter, or melt the butter in the gravy. The same gravy for target or loin of lamb.

107. Rich brown Gravy for Poultry, Ragout, or Game.--If your stock or store gravy is poor, to enrich it add one pound of meat to one pint of your store gravy; cut the meat clear from the bones, chop it up as fine as mince meat, chop also one ounce of ham, or gammon, unless you have by you the gravy that has settled in the dish from a ham. Lay at the bottom of the stew-pan one ounce of butter, an onion sliced, and the chopped meat; cover it close, and set it on a clear, slow fire; move it about to prevent it sticking. When the gravy draws, and the meat is rather brown, add by degrees the liquor; when it boils, put in the bones of the meat, chickens' head and feet; and when it boils again carefully skim it. Add a crust of bread toasted brown, a sprig of winter savoury, or lemon thyme and parsley, a dozen berries of allspice, a strip of lemon peel, and a dozen black peppercorns; cover it close and keep it boiling gently till it is reduced to half; when cold, take off all the fat and thicken it with the following thickening: Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan; take out all the buttermilk that may be at the top, then sprinkle flour into it, shaking it all the time: make it a thick paste, and stir this into your gravy boiling.

108. Melted Butter cannot be made good with mere flour and water. Dr. Kitchiner says, that he has tried every way of making this sauce, and gives it as his opinion that the following, if carefully observed, will be always found to give satisfaction: Cut two ounces of butter into little bits, put it into a clean stew-pan, with a large teaspoonful of flour, arrow-root, or potatoe starch, and add two table-spoonsful of milk; when thoroughly mixed, add six table-spoonsful of water, hold it over the fire, and shake it round the same way every minute, till it begins to simmer; then let it boil up. This is a good recipe for melted butter where it is not intended to be used with acids or wine, which will have the effect of curdling the milk. Pure water is best when the melted butter is intended for fish and puddings, to which any mixture of wine is intended. Clear stock or gravy, instead of water, is preferable when it is intended to be eaten with roast meat, or for vegetables to be eaten with roast meat. The old-fashioned method of mixing is as good as the Doctor's. It is as follows: Break up the butter on a trencher, and work the flour into it thoroughly, then add it to the cold liquid in the saucepan; or you may drop the flour, a quarter of an hour before it is set on the fire, on the top of the liquid, without stirring at all; when the flour has all sunk to the bottom, shake it round till the flour is well incorporated with the liquid; then add the butter, and melt over a clear brisk fire. Fresh, rich cream is sometimes used instead of milk, water, or gravy. You should take care that your saucepan for melted butter be always well tinned, and kept delicately clean. Some recommend a silver saucepan; but this seems to us to be a stupid piece of extravagance. Dr. Kitchiner, however, who talks a great deal about economy, gravely tells us that a pint silver saucepan will not cost more than four or five pounds! Melted butter is frequently spoilt in the making; for ordinary purposes it should be of the thickness of good cream, but when intended to be mixed with flavouring, it should be of the thickness of light batter. If by any chance it become oiled, put a spoonful of cold water to it, and stir it with a spoon, or pour it back and forwards till it is right again. By mixing such vegetables as parsley, chervil, and others, generally eaten with melted butter, and sending them to the table on a little plate, those who like their flavour may mix for themselves. In the same way, all descriptions of flavouring essences, such as catsup, anchovy, &c., &c., may be mixed at table. This plan will be found to be a great saving in butter.

109. Sauce for Fricassee of Fowls, Rabbits, white Meat, Fish, or Vegetables.--You have no occasion to buy meat for these sauces, as their flavour is but small. The liquor that has boiled fowls, veal, or rabbit, or a little broth that you may have by you, or the feet and necks of chickens, or raw or dressed veal, will do very well. Stew with a little water any of these, add to it an onion sliced, a bit of lemon peel, a little pounded mace or nutmeg, some white peppercorns, and a bunch of sweet herbs, until the flavour is good; then strain it, and add a little good cream, a piece of butter, and a little flour; salt to your taste. A squeeze of lemon may be added after the sauce is taken from the fire, shaking it well. Yolk of egg is frequently used in fricassee, but if you have cream it is better, as the egg is apt to curdle.

110. Sauce for cold Fowl, or Partridge.--Boil two eggs hard, rub them down in a mortar with an anchovy, two dessert spoonfuls of oil, three of vinegar, an eschalot, cayenne (sometimes,) and a tea-spoonful of mustard. All should be pounded before the oil is added; then strain it; eschalot vinegar instead of eschalots eats well; if so, omit one spoonful of the common vinegar: salt to your taste.

111. A very rich Mushroom Sauce for Fowls or Rabbits.--Pick, rub and wash a pint of young mushrooms, and sprinkle with salt to take off the skin. Put them into a saucepan with a little salt, a blade of mace, a little nutmeg, a pint of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour: boil them up and stir till done, then pour it into the dish with the chickens; garnish with lemon. If you cannot get fresh mushrooms, use pickled ones, done white, with a little mushroom powder with the cream.

112. Sauce for boiled Carp, or Boiled Turkey.--Make some melted butter with a little water and a tea-spoonful of flour, and add a quarter of a pint of cream, half an anchovy not washed, chopped fine; set it over the fire, and as it boils up, add a large spoonful of Indian soy: if that does not give it a fine colour, put a little more; add a little salt, and half a lemon; stir it well to prevent it curdling.

113. Green Sauce for green Geese or Ducklings.--A glass of white wine, some scalded gooseberries, a pint of sorrel juice, some white sugar, and a bit of butter. Boil them up, and serve in a boat.

114. Egg Sauce.--Boil the eggs hard, chop them fine, then put them into melted butter.

115. Onion Sauce.--Take the skins off ripe onions, remove the rooty fibres and the tops, let them lie in salt and water an hour, then put them into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil them till they are tender. You should allow them plenty of water. When tender, skin them, cut them exceedingly small, or rub them through a colander; season them with pepper and salt, and mix with an equal quantity of thick melted butter. This sauce is usually eaten with shoulder or leg of mutton. If you wish it very mild, use the large silvery onions, and boil them in several waters. Onion sauce is also eaten with rabbits, boiled ducks, tripe, and sometimes with a scrag of mutton or veal.

116. Apple Sauce.--Take four or five juicy apples, two table-spoonfuls of cold water or cider; instead of putting the lid on, place the parings over the apples, and put them by a gentle fire. When they sink they are done; remove the saucepan from the fire, and beat up the apples; take the parings from the top first, add a bit of butter, a tea-spoonful of fine powdered sugar, and a dust of nutmeg.

117. Gooseberry Sauce.--Scald half a pint of green gooseberries; do them till they are tender, but not broken; drain them on a sieve; when the liquor is cold, take half a pint of it, and make a thick batter of it, stir in the gooseberries with a little grated ginger and lemon peel. This sauce is sometimes used for mackerel.

118. Wow wow Sauce, for stewed beef or bouilli. Quarter and slice two or three pickled cucumbers or walnuts, or part of each, chop fine a handful of parsley, make some melted butter in half a pint of broth in which the beef is boiled, add a tea-spoonful of made mustard and a table-spoonful of vinegar, and the same of port wine and mushroom catsup: let it simmer till thick, then stir in the parsley and pickles to get warm; pour the whole over the beef, or put in a sauce tureen. The flavour may be varied by a tea-spoonful or two of any kind of the vinegars.

119. Curry Sauce is made by putting a little powdered curry into some melted butter, or curry vinegar.

120. Parsley and Butter.--Wash and pick leaf by leaf some parsley; put a tea-spoonful of salt into half a pint of boiling water, boil the parsley about ten minutes; drain it on a sieve, mince it quite fine, and then bruise it to a pulp: put it into a sauce boat, and mix with it by degrees about half a pint of melted butter. Never pour parsley and butter over boiled things, but send up in a boat.

121. Fennel and Butter for Mackerel is prepared in the same way as parsley and butter.

122. Plum Pudding Sauce.--A glass of sherry, half a glass of brandy, cherry bounce or Curaçoa, or essence of punch, and two tea-spoonfuls of pounded lump sugar (a very little grated lemon peel is sometimes added,) in a quarter of a pint of thick melted butter: grate nutmeg on the top.

123. Anchovy Sauce.--Pound three anchovies in a mortar with a bit of butter; rub it through a double hair sieve with the back of a wooden spoon, and stir it into about half a pint of melted butter, or stir in a table-spoonful of essence of anchovy. Many cooks add cayenne and lemon juice.

124. Caper Sauce.--Take a table-spoonful of capers, and two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar; mince one-third of them very fine, and divide the others in half; put them in a quarter of a pint of melted butter, or good thickened gravy; stir the same way as you do melted butter, or it will oil. Sometimes half a Seville orange or lemon or parsley, chervil, or tarragon, are added.

125. Mock Caper Sauce.--Take French beans, gherkins, green peas, or nasturtiums, all pickled; cut them into bits the size of capers; put them into half a pint of melted butter; add two tea-spoonfuls of lemon juice or vinegar.

126. Shrimp Sauce.--Shell a pint of shrimps, and stir into half a pint of melted butter; a little cream makes a delicate addition. It is used with salmon, turbot, and soles.

127. Oyster Sauce.--Two dozen oysters will make half a pint of sauce, not more. Open the oysters, save all the liquor, perfectly free from bits of shell, scald the oysters in the liquor till they look plump, then take out the fish and add to the liquor two ounces of butter rolled in flour, and two table-spoonfuls of cream; boil it up. Take off the beards or fringy part of the oysters; if they are large, cut them in two; stir them in the butter, and set them by the fire for a minute or two, but do not let them boil, as it hardens them.

128. Lobster Sauce.--Choose a hen lobster, pick out all the spawn and red coral that runs down the back, pound it to a paste with a lump of butter, pull the meat of the back and claws to pieces with two forks, stir the lobster into some boiling hot melted butter; keep it on the fire till the lobster is warmed through, and well mixed. You may add, if liked, catsup, lemon juice, cayenne, anchovy; but the simple flavour of the lobster is best. A little cream is an improvement.

129. Liver Sauce.--Scald the liver, clear away all the fibres and specky parts, pound it in a mortar, with a bit of butter, then boil it up with melted butter; season it with cayenne, and a squeeze of lemon juice. You may add catsup or anchovy.

130. Bread Sauce is either made with gravy or milk. Stew the heads, necks, and feet of the poultry for which it is intended, with an onion, a little allspice, and a few peppercorns; when reduced to half a pint, strain it and boil up again; put in a small tea-cup full of bread crumbs, let it boil till quite stiff, hold it over the fire and shake it till it boils thoroughly, then put it on the hob till time to serve; stir in a bit of salt, one ounce of butter, and two table-spoonfuls of cream.

131. Sauce for Tripe, Calf's-head, or Cow-heel.--Garlic vinegar according to taste, a table-spoonful of brown sugar, mustard and black pepper a tea-spoonful of each, stirred into oiled melted butter. (See 466.)

132. Celery Sauce.--Take fresh celery; take off all the outside leaves, leave none but what are quite crisp, and which may be known by their breaking short without any strings, cut up in pieces about an inch long, take liquor that has boiled veal, chickens, or lamb, when fast boiling.

133. Tarragon or Burnet makes rich pleasant sauce, chiefly used for steaks; sent to table in a sauce tureen.

134. Sorrel Sauce for Lamb or Veal, and Sweet-breads.--Two quarter of sorrel leaves will not make more than a sauce tureen of sauce; pick and wash them clean, put them into a stew-pan with one ounce of butter, cover close and set over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour; then rub them through a coarse hair sieve, season them with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a small lump of sugar, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and make the whole thoroughly hot.

135. Poor Man's Sauce.--A handful of young parsley leaves, chopped fine, a dozen of young green onions, chopped fine, put to them salt and pepper, two table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and four of vinegar; a little scraped horse-radish, pickled French beans, or gherkins, may be added. This sauce is taken with cold meats.

136. Truffle Sauce.--Truffles are only good while in season, that is, in a green state. Add two ounces of butter to eighteen truffles sliced, simmer them together till they are tender; then add as much good gravy, brown or white, as to bring it to a proper thickness, season it with salt, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon.

137. Sharp Sauce for Venison.--Best white wine vinegar half a pint, loaf sugar pounded a quarter of a pound; simmer it gently; skim, and strain it through a tamis.

138. Sweet Sauce for Venison.--Currant jelly, either black or red, melted and served hot; others like it sent to table as jelly.

139. Wine Sauce for Venison, Hare, or Haunch of Mutton.--Take equal parts of rich mutton gravy, without any flavourings, and port wine. Simmer them together to half a pint, add a table-spoonful of currant jelly, let it just boil up.

140. Sauce for a Pig.--Three quarters of a pint of good beef gravy, six or eight leaves of sage, chopped very fine, a blade of mace, a tea-cup full of bread crumbs, and eight white peppercorns; let them boil six or eight minutes, then stir into the sauce the brains, gravy, and whatever sticks about the dish on which you have split the pig, one ounce of butter rolled in flour, two table-spoonfuls of cream, and one or two of catsup, if liked; simmer a minute or two, and serve in a sauce tureen.

141. Turtle Sauce.--To a pint of rich beef gravy, thickened, put a wine glass of Madeira, six leaves of basil, the juice and peel of half a lemon, a few grains of cayenne or curry powder, an eschalot sliced, a table spoonful of essence of anchovy; simmer together five minutes, then strain, and add a dozen turtle force meat balls. This sauce is used for calf's head, or hashed or stewed veal, or for any other rich dish in imitation of turtle.

142. A Sauce for all sorts of Fish.--Half a pint of port or claret, half a pint of rich gravy, a little nutmeg, three anchovies, two table-spoonfuls of catsup, and salt; simmer all together till the anchovies are done, then add three ounces of butter thickened with flour, arrow-root, or potatoe mucilage; when it boils, add some scraped horse-radish, a dozen or two of oysters, a lobster cut in bits, a few small mushrooms, and half a pint of picked shrimps or crawfish. This sauce is intended to pour over the fish--boiled carp, tench, pike, whiting, boiled cod, and haddock.

143. Pudding Sauce.--Half a glass of brandy, one glass of white wine, a little grated rind of lemon, half an ounce of grated loaf sugar, and a little powdered cinnamon, mixed with melted butter. It is a good way to keep a bottle of these ingredients to mix with melted butter when wanted. In a bottle containing one pint of brandy and two pints of sherry, steep the kernels of apricots, nectarines, and peaches, with an ounce of shaved lemon rind, half an ounce of mace, and a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar; pour off clear to mix with butter. Two table-spoonfuls will flavour a boat of sauce; the mace and lemon peel may be steeped in half a pint of brandy, or a pint of sherry, for fourteen days; strain, and add a quarter of a pint of capillaire.

144. Custard Sauce.--For rice or other plain puddings, or with fruit pies, stir a pint of sweet cream in a double saucepan till it boils; beat the yolks of two or three eggs, with a spoonful of cold cream, and an ounce of powdered sugar; pour the boiling cream to them, and pour backwards and forwards two or three times to prevent curdling; then set the inner saucepan over the boiling water, and stir it continually one way till it thickens. Serve in a china basin with grated nutmeg, or pounded cinnamon strewed over the top.

145. Roe Sauce.--Boil the soft roes of mackerel, clear away all the skin, and bruise them with the back of a wooden spoon; beat up the yolk of an egg with a little salt and pepper, a little fennel and parsley scalded and chopped fine, rub the whole together, and stir into melted butter. Some people prefer a spoonful of catsup, essence of anchovy, or walnut pickle.

167. Boiled Beef.--Fresh boiled beef is called beef bouilli by some, but in the French kitchen the term means fresh beef dressed, without absolutely boiling, it being suffered only to simmer till it is done. Indeed, it may be laid down as a general rule, that whether you are dressing beef bouilli, or any other meat, it should never be suffered to go into a boiling gallop, except for a minute or two, for the purpose of throwing up the scum. After the scum is all cleared away, let it simmer till it is done. But you must be careful not to let your meat boil too quickly; for this purpose it should be put over a moderate fire, and the water made gradually hot, or the meat will be hardened, and shrink up as if it were scorched; but by keeping the meat a certain time heating, without boiling, the fibres of the meat dilate, and it not only yields the scum more freely, but the meat is rendered more tender. The advantage of dressing fresh meat in the way practised by the French with regard to fresh beef is twofold. In the first place, meat dressed in this manner affords much more nourishment than it does cooked in the common way, is easy of digestion, and will yield soup of a most excellent quality. (See Soup and Bouilli, and 99.)

168. Boiled Salt Beef.--A piece of beef of fifteen pounds will take three hours, or more, simmering after it has boiled, and it ought to be full forty minutes on the fire before it does boil; skim carefully; put a tea-cup full of the liquor, and garnish with sliced carrots. Vegetables, carrots, turnips, kale, parsnips; sauce, melted butter. Pease pudding is sometimes boiled with salt beef, and the liquor, if not too salt, will make good pease soup. An aitch, or H bone of beef, a round, or ribs salted and rolled, and indeed all other beef, are boiled in the same way. Briskets and other inferior joints require, perhaps, more attention than superior ones; they should in fact rather be stewed than boiled, and in a small quantity of water, by which means, if good meat, they will be delicious eating.

169. Mutton.--A leg will take from two to three hours boiling. Accompaniments--parsley and butter, caper sauce, eschalot, onion, turnips, carrots, spinach, &c., and to boiled mutton in general.

170. Neck of Mutton.--As the scrag end takes much longer to boil, some people cut it off and boil it half or three-quarters of an hour before the rest, as it is apt to be bloody, however well washed; you had better skim it well. When it is time to put the best end in, add cold water to check the heat, allowing an hour and a half or three-quarters, after the second boiling up. Cut off some of the fat before dressing, or at least peel off the skin when taken up. For accompaniments, see 169.

171. Shoulder, boiled.--The whole is sometimes boiled, and sometimes cut in half, taking the knuckle part, and leaving the oyster for roasting; it will take not less than two hours slow boiling, though it may not weigh above five pounds. Boil it either plain or in broth. Accompaniments, 169.

172. Breast, boiled, will require from two and a half, to three hours. Accompaniments, 169.

173. Sheeps' Heads, plain boiled.--Boil them two hours; before boiling, take out the brains, wash them clean and free from all skin; chop about a dozen sage leaves very small, tie them in a small bag, and let them boil half an hour, then beat them up with pepper and salt, and half an ounce of butter; pour it over the head, or serve in a boat or tureen; skin the tongue before serving. Accompaniments, 169.

174. Leg of Lamb, boiled.--From an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. Accompaniments--caper sauce, melted butter, turnips, spinach, carrots, &c.

175. Neck, boiled.--One hour; if very large, an hour and a quarter.

176. Lamb's Head and Pluck.--Parboil the lights and a small bit of the liver till it will chop fine, and boil the head in the same liquor; it will take nearly an hour to boil; scald the brains, tied up in a small bag, with five or six sage leaves, chopped very fine; they will take twenty minutes to do; warm the mince in a little of the liquor, seasoned with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; thicken with flour, and half an ounce of butter, and stir in the brains. Take up the head; skin the tongue; pour over the mince; sippets of toasted bread and slices of lemon. The liver, heart, and sweetbread, to be fried, and laid round the dish with slices of bacon; or served in a separate dish, which is preferable, as the liver requires a little brown gravy. Vegetables, turnips, carrots, &c.

Browned.--After boiling, wash the head with the yolk of an egg; sprinkle with bread crumbs and chopped parsley, and brown it in a dutch oven, the mince to be poured round it. Some people like the flavour of catsup in the mince; others like a little sliced lemon peel, and a spoonful or two of cream.

177. Boiled Veal.--A knuckle, whether of leg or shoulder, will take full two hours. A scrag of neck or breast, an hour and three-quarters to two hours. Sauce, melted butter, parsley and butter, celery, &c.

178. Calf's Head, boiled.--Let it be cut in half by the butcher, and all the inside bones removed; take out the brains, wash the head well in several waters, with a little salt, to draw out the blood; boil it slowly in plenty of water two hours or two hours and a quarter. Sauce. Well clean the brains, and boil them in a cloth half an hour, with about a dozen sage leaves chopped fine, or parsley, or part of each; when done, beat them up in a small saucepan, with a little salt and pepper, one ounce of butter, and a little lemon juice; have them ready quite hot to pour over the tongue, when skinned. Some people mix the brains with parsley and butter, and pour over the whole head. However it is dressed, it is usually garnished with sliced lemon.

179. Tripe, when raw, will take four or five hours simmering. If previously well boiled, twenty minutes to three-quarters of an hour. It may be in milk, or milk and water, or equal parts of milk and its own liquor. Boil with the tripe eight or ten large onions. To keep the tripe warm, serve it in the liquor, and beat up the onions with pepper, salt, and butter; or the tripe may be served without liquor, and the onion sauce poured over. If onions are not approved, serve parsley and butter, or caper sauce. Tripe may be cut in pieces the size of a hand dipped in batter and fried, with rashers of bacon laid round the dish.--N. B. Mustard is always an accompaniment of tripe, and generally vinegar also.

In some of the English towns, particularly at Birmingham, famous for tripe, the belly or paunch of the animal, after being well cleaned, (in doing which thoroughly great attention and care must be observed,) is sent to the oven in a deep earthenware pot, or jar, closely covered over the top, and baked, or rather stewed, in just a sufficient quantity of water, for four or five hours, or till it is well done. It is sold while yet hot, in the public-houses or tripe shops, at so much a "large or small cut," with a proportionate quantity of "broth," that is, the liquor in which it has been stewed; nothing else is eaten with it, except mustard and salt. In Birmingham it is usually eaten for supper, and of course by candle-light, and at no other meal; a relation of ours, however, was so fond of it, that he used to have the dining-room darkened, and the candles lit, in order that he might partake of it for his dinner, under the same apparent circumstances as at supper. We have heard of whist devotees who could not play the game with any gusto by daylight, and who resorted to the same expedient to imitate night as our tripe gourmand. Tripe cooked in the Birmingham fashion is delicious--far, very far, superior to that gotten in London; this may be partly accounted for by the fact that all meat is greatly deteriorated by being twice subjected to heat.

180. Cow-heel in the hands of a skilful cook, will furnish several good meals; when boiled tender, cut it into handsome pieces, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them a light brown; lay them round a dish, and put in the middle of it sliced onions fried, or the accompaniments ordered for tripe.

181. Pig's Pettitoes consist of the feet and internal parts of a sucking pig. Set on with a quantity of water, or broth; a button onion or two may be added, if approved--also, four or five leaves of sage chopped small. When the heart, liver, and lights, are tender, take them out and chop fine; let the feet simmer the while; they will take from half to three-quarters of an hour to do. Season the mince with salt, nutmeg, and a little pepper, half an ounce of butter, a table-spoonful or two of thick cream, and a tea-spoonful of arrow-root, flour, or potatoe starch; return it to the saucepan, in which the feet are; let it boil up, shaking it one way. Split the feet, lay them round in the mince. Serve with toasted sippets. Garnish. Mashed potatoes.

182. Salt Pork requires long boiling, never less than twenty minutes to a pound, and a thick joint considerably more. A leg of ten pounds will take four hours simmering, a spring two hours, a porker's head the same. Be very careful that it does not stick to the pot. No sauce is required, except a quarter of a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled, to draw the gravy, and plenty of good fresh mustard. A chine is usually served quite dry. The vegetable accompaniments are pease pudding, turnips, carrots, and parsnips.

183. Pickled Pork, which is usually bought pickled, requires to be well washed before boiling, and must boil very slowly. It is seldom eaten alone, but as an accompaniment to fowls, or other white meat.

187. Salmon to boil.--The water should be blood-warm: allow plenty to cover the fish, with a good handful of salt, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar; this makes the fish boil firm. Remove the scum as fast as it rises. Keep it at a very gentle boil from half an hour to an hour, according to the thickness of the fish. When the eyes start, and the fins draw out easily, it is done. Lay the fish-drainer across the kettle a minute or two before shifting the fish. Sauce, lobster, shrimp, anchovy, or parsley and butter. Melted butter is the universal sauce for fish, whether boiled, fried, or baked. Whatever other sauce is served, plain melted butter must never be omitted: we shall therefore only refer to the number of other sauces suitable for particular kinds of fish. Observe, also, potatoes, either boiled or mashed, are the only vegetables eaten with fish, excepting parsnips with salt fish.

188. Broiled Salmon.--This is a good method of dressing a small quantity of salmon for one or two persons. It may be cut in slices the whole round of the fish, each taking in two divisions of the bone; or the fish may be split, and the bone removed, and the sides of the fish divided into cutlets of three or four inches each: the former method is preferable, if done neatly with a sharp knife. Rub it thoroughly dry with a clean rough cloth; then do each piece over with salad oil or butter. Have a nice clean gridiron over a very clear fire, and at some distance from it. When the bars are hot through wipe them, and rub with lard or suet to prevent sticking; lay on the salmon, and sprinkle with salt. When one side is brown, carefully turn and brown the other. They do equally well or better in a tin, or flat dish, in an oven, with a little bit of butter, or sweet oil; or they may be done in buttered paper on the gridiron. Sauce, lobster or shrimp.

189. Baked Salmon.--If a small fish, turn the tail to the mouth, and skewer it; force meat may be put in the belly, or, if part of a large fish is to be baked, cut it in slices, egg it over, and dip it in the force meat. Stick bits of butter about the salmon (a few oysters laid round are an improvement). It will require occasional basting with the butter. When one side becomes brown, let it be carefully turned, and when the second side is brown, it is done. Take it up carefully, with all that lies about it in the baking dish. For sauce, melted butter, with two table-spoonsful of port wine, one of catsup, and the juice of a lemon, poured over the fish; or anchovy sauce in a boat.

190. Pickled Salmon.--Do not scrape off the scales, but clean the fish carefully, and cut into pieces about eight inches long. Make a strong brine of salt and water; to two quarts, put two pounds of salt, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar; in all, make just enough to cover the fish; boil it slowly, and barely as much as you would for eating hot. Drain off all the liquor; and, when cold, lay the pieces in a kit or small tub. Pack it as close as possible, and fill up with equal parts of best vinegar and the liquor in which the fish was boiled. Let it remain so a day or two, then again fill up. Serve with a garnish of fresh fennel. The same method of pickling will apply to sturgeon, mackerel, herrings, and sprats. The three latter are sometimes baked in vinegar, flavoured with allspice and bay leaves, and eat very well; but will not keep more than a few days.

191. Turbot, Halibut, and Brill, boiled.--Score the skin across the thick part of the back, to prevent its breaking on the breast, which it would be liable to do when the fish swells in boiling. Put the fish in the kettle in cold water, with a large handful of salt; as it comes to boil, skim it well, and set it aside to simmer as slowly as possible for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes. If it boil fast it will break. It may be garnished with fried smelts or gudgeons, laid all round like spokes of a wheel. Sauce, lobster or shrimp.

192. Soles and Dutch Plaice may be boiled exactly in the same way as turbot, and with the same garnish and sauce, or with parsley, fennel, or chervil sauce. If you have not a turbot kettle, these flat fish boil very well in a large frying pan, provided it admits depth of water to cover them.

193. Soles, fried.--Having cleaned, wipe them thoroughly dry, and keep them in a coarse cloth an hour or two before using. In case any moisture should remain, flour them all over, and again wipe it off. They may be fried either with or without bread crumbs or oatmeal. If bread crumbs are to be used, beat up an egg very finely; wash over the fish with a paste-brush; then sprinkle over it bread crumbs or oatmeal, so that every part may be covered, and one part not be thicker than another. Lift up the fish by a fork stuck in the head, and shake off any loose crumbs that may adhere. Have plenty of fat in your pan, over a brisk fire, and let it quite boil before you put the fish in. The fat may be salad oil, butter, lard or dripping. If sweet and clean, the least expensive answers as well as the best, but let there be enough to cover the fish. Give the fish a gentle shove with a slice, that it may not stick to the pan. In about four or five minutes one side will be brown; turn it carefully, and do the other; which, being already warm, will not take so long. The best way to turn a large sole, is to stick a fork in the head, and raise the tail with a slice, otherwise it is liable to be broken with its own weight. If the soles are very large, it is a good way to cut them across in four or five pieces, by which means the thick parts can have more time allowed them, without overdoing the thin. The very same rules will apply to the frying of Dutch plaice, flounders, eels, jack perch, roach, and other fresh-water fish. Jack and eels to be cut in pieces three or four inches long. Sauce, anchovy, parsley and butter, or melted butter flavoured with mushroom catsup. Garnish, sprigs of parsley or lemon juice.

194. Soles or Eels, stewed.--They may be first half fried, so as to give them a little brownness; then carefully drain them from fat; season with pepper and salt, and set them on with as much good beef gravy as will cover them. Let them simmer very gently for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, according to their thickness, but be very careful that they be not overdone. Take up the fish very gently with a slice. Thicken the sauce with flour and butter; flavour with mushroom catsup and port wine; simmer a minute or two, then strain it over the fish. Some people do not like the addition of wine, and instead thereof mix the thickening with a tea-cup full of good cream, seasoned with cayenne and nutmeg, and with or without the addition of a spoonful of catsup.

195. Cod.--The head and shoulders, comprehending in weight two-thirds or three-quarters of the fish, is much better dressed separately; the tail being much thinner would be broken to pieces before the thicker parts are done. The best way of dressing the tail, is to fry it. For boiling cod, allow plenty of room and water, that the fish may be perfectly covered. Put it in blood-warm water, with a large handful of salt. Watch for its boiling, that it may be set a little aside. A small cod will require twenty minutes after it boils; a large one, half an hour. When the fins pull easily, and the eyes start, the fish is done. Slip it very carefully on the fish plate, that it may not be broken. Take out the roe and liver, which are much esteemed; they will serve to garnish the dish, together with horse-radish and slices of lemon, or fried smelts, or oysters. Sauce, oyster. The sound, a fat jelly-like substance, along the inside of the backbone, is the great delicacy of the fish. Cod is sometimes boiled in slices. Let them be soaked half an hour in salt water; then set on with cold spring water and salt, just enough to cover them. Let it boil up; then carefully skim and set aside for ten minutes. Serve with the same sauce as above. Slices of cod are much better fried as soles. Slices of crimped cod, for boiling, are put in boiling water, and when done served on a napkin.

233. Sirloin of Beef, roasted.--Sirloin or ribs, of about fifteen pounds, will require to be before a large sound fire about three and a half or four hours; take care to spit it evenly, that it may not be heavier on one side than the other; put a little clean dripping in the dripping pan (tie a piece of paper over it to preserve the fat), baste it well as soon as it is put down, and every quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, till the last half hour; then take off the paper, and make some gravy for it; stir the fire and make it clear; to brown and froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it, baste it with butter, and dredge it with flour; let it go a few minutes longer, till the froth rises; take it up. Garnish it with a hillock of horse-radish, scraped as fine as possible with a very sharp knife. A Yorkshire pudding is an excellent accompaniment. The inside of the sirloin should never be cut hot, but reserved entire for the hash, or a mock hare.

234. Rump and Round.--Rump and rounds of beef are sometimes roasted; they require thorough doing, and much basting to keep the outside from being dry. It should be before the fire from three hours, and upwards, according to size. Gravy and garnish as above.

235. Mock Hare--The inside lean of a sirloin of beef may be dressed so as to resemble hare, and is by many people greatly preferred to it. Make a good stuffing. If possible, get the inside meat of the whole length of sirloin, or even of two, lay the stuffing on half the length, turn the other end over and sew up the two sides with a strong twine, that will easily draw out when done; roast it nicely, taking care to baste it well, and serve with sauces and garnishes the same as hare; or, it may be partly roasted and then stewed, in rich thickened gravy with force meat balls, and sauce.

236. Ribs of Beef, boned.--Take out the ribs, &c. and roll it as round as possible; bind with tape; roast with or without veal stuffing, laid over before rolling. Thoroughly soak it, and brown it before a quick fire. Roast beef accompaniments, and, if liked, wow-wow sauce.

237. Roasting Mutton.--A saddle of mutton of ten or twelve pounds will take from two hours and a half to three hours roasting. Mutton should be put before a brisk fire; a saddle of mutton requires to be protected from the heat by covering it with paper, which should be taken off about a quarter of an hour before it is done; when of a pale-brown colour, baste it; flour it lightly to froth. The leg of mutton, the shoulder, the loin, the neck, the breast, and the haunch, require the same treatment as the saddle, with the exception of papering, which, however, may be sometimes required. The haunch should be served with plain but rich mutton sauce, and with sweet sauce; of course separately.

238. Mutton, Venison fashion.--Hang till fit for dressing a good neck of mutton; two days before dressing it, rub it well twice each day with powdered allspice, and black pepper; roast it in paste, as ordered for the haunch of venison.

239. Roasting Veal.--This meat requires particular care to roast it a nice brown; the fire should be the same as for beef; a sound large fire for a large joint, and a brisker for a smaller: soak thoroughly, and then bring it nearer the fire to brown; baste on first putting down, and occasionally afterwards. When done and dished, pour over it melted butter, with or without a little brown gravy. Veal joints, not stuffed, may be served with force meat balls, or rolled into sausages as garnish to the dish; or fried pork sausages. Bacon or ham, and greens, are generally eaten with veal.

240. Fillet of Veal of from twelve to sixteen pounds will require from four or five hours at a good fire; make some stuffing or force meat, and put it under the flap, that there may be some left to eat cold, or to season a hash; brown it, and pour good melted butter over it; garnish with thin slices of lemon and cakes or balls of stuffing. A loin is the best part of the calf, and will take about three hours roasting; paper the kidney fat and back. A shoulder from three hours to three hours and a half; stuff it with the force meat ordered for the fillet of veal, or balls made of 271. Neck, best end, will take two hours; same accompaniments as the fillet. The scrag part is best in a pie or broth. Breast from an hour and a half to two hours. Let the caul remain till it is almost done, then take it off to brown it; baste, flour and froth it.

241. Veal Sweetbread.--Trim a fine sweetbread (it cannot be too fresh), parboil it for five minutes, and throw it into a basin of cold water. Roast it plain, or beat up the yolk of an egg, and prepare some bread crumbs. When the sweetbread is cold, dry it thoroughly in a cloth; run a lark-spit or a skewer through it, and tie it on the ordinary spit; egg it with a paste-brush; powder it well with bread crumbs, and roast it. For sauce, fried bread crumbs round it, and melted butter, with a little mushroom catsup, or serve them on buttered toast, garnished with egg sauce, or with gravy. Instead of spitting them, you may put them into a tin dutch oven or fry them.

242. Roasting Lamb.--To the usual accompaniments of roasted meat, lamb requires green mint sauce or salad, or both. Some cooks, about five minutes before it is done, sprinkle it with a little fresh-gathered and finely minced parsley, or crisped parsley. Lamb and all young meats ought to be thoroughly done; therefore, do not take either lamb or veal off the spit till you see it drop white gravy. When green mint cannot be got, mint vinegar is an acceptable substitute for it, and crisp parsley, on a side plate, is an admirable accompaniment. Hind-quarter of eight pounds will take from an hour and three-quarters to two hours; baste, and froth it. A quarter of a porkling is sometimes skinned, cut, and dressed lamb fashion, and sent up as a substitute for it. The leg and the loin of lamb, when little, should be roasted together, the former being lean, the latter fat, and the gravy is better preserved. Fore-quarter of ten pounds, about two hours. It is a pretty general custom, when you take off the shoulder from the ribs, to squeeze a Seville orange, or lemon, over them, and sprinkle them with a little pepper and salt; this may be done by the cook before it comes to table. Some people are not remarkably expert at dividing these joints nicely. Leg of five pounds, from an hour to an hour and a half. Shoulder, with a quick fire, an hour. Ribs, almost an hour to an hour and a quarter; joint them nicely, crack the ribs across, and divide them from the brisket after it is roasted. Loin, an hour and a quarter. Neck, an hour. Breast three-quarters of an hour.

243. Roasting Pork.--If this meat be not well done, thoroughly well done, it is disgusting to the sight and poisonous to the stomach. "In the gravy of pork, if there is the least tint of redness," says Dr. Kitchiner, "it is enough to appal the sharpest appetite. Other meats under-done are unpleasant, but pork is absolutely uneatable." A Leg of eight pounds will require about three hours; score the skin across in narrow stripes (some score it in diamonds) about a quarter of an inch apart; stuff the knuckle with sage and onion minced fine, and a little grated bread, seasoned with pepper, salt, and the yolk of an egg. See 252 and 270. Do not put it too near the fire; rub a little sweet oil on the skin with a paste-brush, or a goose-feather; this makes the crackling crisper and browner than basting it with dripping, and it will be a better colour than all the art of cookery can make it in any other way; and this is the best way of preventing the skin from blistering, which is principally occasioned by its being put too near the fire.

244. Leg of Pork roasted without the skin; or Mock Goose.--Parboil a leg of pork, take off the skin, and then put it down to roast; baste it with butter, and make a savoury powder of finely minced or dried or powdered sage, ground black pepper, salt, and some bread crumbs rubbed together through a colander; you may add to this a little very finely minced onion; sprinkle it with this when it is almost roasted; put a half pint of made gravy into the dish, and goose stuffing under the knuckle skin, or garnish the dish with balls of it, fried or broiled.

245. Spare rib: when you put it down to roast, dust on some flour, and baste it with a little butter; dry a dozen sage leaves, rub them through a hair sieve, put them into the top of a pepper box, and about a quarter of an hour before the meat is done baste it with butter; dust the pulverised sage, or savoury powder, in, or sprinkle it with duck stuffing; some people prefer it plain.

265. Seasoning for Roast Pork, Ducks, or Geese.--Two-thirds onion, one-third green sage, chopped fine, bread crumbs equal in weight to the sage and onions; season with a little pepper and salt, and incorporate it well with the yolk of an egg or two, and a bit of butter. Some omit the bread crumbs, and some again do not like the onions, while others add to them a clove of garlic.

266. Seasoning for a Sucking Pig.--A large teacup full of grated bread, two ounces of butter, season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper; scald two small onions, chop fine, and about thirty leaves of young sage, and egg beat fine, and mix altogether, and sew it in the belly of the pig.

267. Seasoning for a Goose.--Scald the liver, chop fine, crumb twice its weight in bread, chop fine four small onions, or an equal weight of chives, half the weight of green sage, half an ounce of butter, the yolk of an egg, and a table spoonful of potato starch; season highly with salt and pepper; mix well.

268. Chesnut Seasoning for Goose.--Fry or boil chesnuts till the outer skin comes off very easily, and the inside will pound or grate; reduce them to powder, scald the liver of the goose, and an onion or two, the juice of a lemon, season with pepper, cayenne, salt; mix well together.

269. Stuffing for Veal, Roast Turkey, Fowl, &c.--Mince a quarter of a pound of beef marrow (beef suet will do,) the same weight of bread crumbs, two drachms of parsley leaves, a drachm and a half of sweet marjoram (or lemon thyme,) and the same of grated lemon peel, an onion, chopped very fine, a little salt and pepper, pound thoroughly together, with the yolk and white of two eggs, and secure it in the veal with a skewer, or sew it in with a needle and thread. Make some of it into balls or sausages; flour and fry or boil them, and send them up as a garnish, or in a side dish with roast poultry, veal, or cutlets, &c. This is sufficient quantity for a turkey poult; a very large turkey will require twice as much; an ounce of dressed ham may be added to the above, or use equal parts of the above stuffing and pork sausage meat.

270. Goose or Duck stuffing.--Chop very fine about one ounce of green sage leaves, two ounces of onion also chopped fine (both unboiled,) a bit of butter about the size of a walnut, four ounces of bread crumbs, a little salt and pepper, the yolk and white of an egg; some add to this a little apple.

271. Force meat balls for turtle, mock turtle, or made dishes:--Pound some veal in a marble mortar, rub it through a sieve with as much of the udder as you have of veal, and about the third of the quantity of butter; put some bread crumbs in a stew-pan, moisten with milk, add a little chopped eschalot, and a little parsley; rub them well together in a mortar till they form a smooth paste; put it through a sieve, and when cold, pound and mix all together, with the yolk of three eggs boiled hard; season it with curry powder, or cayenne pepper and salt; add the yolks of two unboiled eggs, rub it well together, and make small balls; a few minutes before your soup is ready, put them in.

272. Stuffing for Hare.--Three ounces of fine bread crumbs, two ounces of beef suet, chopped fine, eschalot half a drachm, one drachm of parsley, a drachm of lemon thyme, marjoram, winter savoury, a drachm of grated lemon peel, and the same of pepper and salt; mix these with the white and yolk of an egg; do not make it thin, for if it is not stiff enough, it will be good for nothing; put it in the hare and sew it up. If the liver is quite sound, parboil it, mince it very fine, and put to the stuffing.

273. Veal Force meat.--Of undressed veal take two ounces, scrape it quite fine, and free from skin and sinews, the same quantity of beef or veal suet, and the same of bread crumbs; chop fine one drachm of lemon peel, two drachms of parsley, the same quantity of sweet herbs, and half a drachm of mace or allspice beaten to a fine powder; pound all together in a mortar, break into it the yolk and white of an egg, rub it all well together, and season with pepper and salt. This may be made more savoury by adding cold pickled tongue, eschalot, anchovy, cayenne, or curry powder.

274. Stuffing for Pike, Carp, or Haddock.--A dozen oysters bearded and chopped, two yolks of eggs, a small onion, or two cloves of eschalot and a few sprigs of parsley chopped fine, season with cayenne, mace, allspice, pepper, and salt; add their weight of bread crumbs, or biscuit powder, then put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan, and simmer them till they have sucked up the butter; as they begin to bind, sprinkle over them more bread crumbs or biscuit powder, till the whole forms into a ball, with which stuff the fish. Some people like the addition of ham or tongue scraped, and suet or marrow instead of butter.

Another way. Beef suet, or marrow and fat bacon, and fresh butter, two ounces of each; pound them with the meat of a lobster, ten or twelve oysters, one or two anchovies; season with thyme, parsley, knotted marjoram, savoury, chopped fine and scalded; add salt, cayenne, and nutmeg, a few drops of essence of eschalot; add the yolk of an egg, and bread crumbs. This pudding will be sufficiently done in the belly of the fish, if you do not add the eschalot in substance.

286. "After a buttock of beef has been in salt about a week, well wash it, and put it in a brown earthen pan with a pint of water, cover the pan quite over and tightly with two or three thicknesses of cap or foolscap paper (never use brown paper--it contains tar, &c.). Bake for four or five hours in a moderate heated oven. A ham properly soaked may be baked in the same way.

287. "Bakers are in the habit of baking small cod fish, haddock, and mackerel, with a dust of flour and some bits of butter put on them. Eels, when large and stuffed. Herrings and sprats in a brown pan, with a little vinegar and a little spice, and tied over with paper. A hare, prepared the same as for roasting, with a few pieces of butter and a little drop of milk put into the dish, and basted several times, will be found nearly equal to roasting; or cut it up, season it properly, put it into a jar or pan, and cover it over, and bake it in a moderate oven for about three hours. In the same manner legs and shins of beef, ox cheeks, &c., prepared with a seasoning of onions, turnips, &c., may be baked: they will take about four hours; let them stand till cold to skim off the fat; then warm up altogether, or part, as you may want it.

300. Steaks.--Cut them rather thinner than for broiling; put some butter, or, what is much cheaper and quite as good, some clarified dripping or suet, into an iron frying-pan, and when it is quite hot put in the steaks, and keep turning them until they are done enough. The sauce for steaks, chops, cutlets, &c., is made as follows:--Take the chops, steaks or cutlets, out of the frying pan; for a pound of meat, keep a table-spoonful of the fat in the pan, or put in an ounce of butter; put to it as much flour as will make it a paste; rub it well together over the fire till they are a little brown; then add as much boiling water as will reduce it to the thickness of good cream, and a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut catsup, or pickle, or browning; let it boil together a few minutes, and pour it through a sieve to the steaks, &c. To the above is sometimes added a sliced onion, or a minced eschalot, with a table-spoonful of port wine, or a little eschalot wine. Garnish with scraped horse-radish, or pickled walnut, gherkins, &c. Some beef-eaters like chopped eschalots in one saucer, and horse-radish grated in vinegar in another. Broiled mushrooms are favourite relishes to beef-steaks.

301. Beef-steaks and Onions.--The steaks are fried as directed above; the common method is to fry the onions cut small, but the best plan perhaps is to use onions prepared as directed in 115.

302. Sausages.--Sausages are not good unless they are quite fresh. Put a bit of butter or dripping into a frying-pan, before it gets hot put in the sausages, shake the pan, and keep turning them (be careful not to break or prick them in so doing); fry them over a very slow fire till they are nicely browned on all sides; when they are done, lay them on a hair sieve, place them before the fire for a couple of minutes to drain the fat from them. The secret of frying sausages is, to let them get hot very gradually--then they will not burst, if they are not stale. You may froth them by rubbing them with cold fresh butter, and lightly dredge them with flour, and put them in a cheese-toaster for a minute. The common practice to prevent their bursting is to prick them with a fork; but this lets out the gravy.

303. Veal Cutlets should be about half an inch thick; trim and flatten; fry in plenty of fresh butter, or good dripping; when the fire is very fierce, you must turn them often--but when not so, do them brown on one side before you turn them. Make gravy of the trimmings, &c.; you may add some browning, mushroom or walnut catsup, or lemon, pickle, &c. Or you may dress them as follows: Cut the veal into pieces about as big as a crown piece; beat them with a cleaver, dip in egg, beat up with a little salt, and then in fine bread crumbs; fry them a light brown in boiling lard; serve under them some good gravy or mushroom sauce, which may be made in five minutes. Garnish with slices of ham, or rashers of bacon, or pork sausages. Many persons prefer frying veal cutlets with ham or bacon rashers, which will afford sufficient fat to fry them, but will be done much sooner; remove the rashers, and keep them warm. When the veal is done, take it out, pour off any fat that may remain, and put into the pan a large tea-cup full or more of gravy or broth, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. When it boils, add herbs and crumbs of bread, pour over the veal, and lay the rashers round the edge of the dish. Garnish, sliced lemon.

304. Sweetbreads should always be got fresh and parboiled immediately. When cold cut them in pieces about three-quarters of an inch thick, dip them in the yolk of an egg, then in fine bread crumbs (some add spice, lemon peel, and sweet herbs;) put some clean dripping into a frying-pan; when it boils put in the sweetbreads, and fry them a fine brown. For garnish, crisp parsley; and for sauce, mushroom catsup and melted butter, or anchovy sauce, or bacon, or ham. This is called full dressing. They are dressed plain as follows: Parboil and slice them as before, dry them on a clean cloth, flour them, and fry them a delicate brown; take care to drain the fat well from them, and garnish them with slices of lemon and sprigs of chervil, parsley, or crisp parsley. For sauce, mushroom catsup, or force meat balls made as 278.

305. Lamb or Mutton Chops are dressed in the same way as veal cutlets, and garnished with crisp parsley, and slices of lemon. If they are bread-crumbed, and covered with buttered writing paper, and then broiled, they are called "Maintenon cutlets."

306. Pork Chops.--Take care that they are trimmed very neatly; they should be about half an inch thick; put a frying-pan on the fire, with a bit of butter; as soon as it is hot, put in your chops, turning them often till brown all over, and done; take one upon a plate and try it; if done, season it with a little finely minced onion, powdered sage, and pepper and salt. Sauce, sage and onions, or Robert sauce.

307. Fried Eggs.--Well-cleansed dripping, or lard, or fresh butter, is the best fat for frying eggs. Be sure the frying-pan is quite clean; when the fat is hot, break two or three eggs into it; do not turn them, but, while they are frying, keep pouring some of the fat over them with a spoon; when the yolk just begins to look white, which it will in about a couple of minutes, they are done enough; the white must not lose its transparency, but the yolk be seen blushing through it. If they are done nicely, they will look as white and delicate as if they had been poached; take them up with a tin slice, drain the fat from them, trim neatly, and send them up with toasted bacon round them. For Frying Fish, see section Fish, p. 66, par. 193, &c.

317. Braising. To braise your meat, put the meat into the braiser (a good stew-pan will answer the purpose, but not so well); then cover the meat with thick slices of fat bacon; lay round it six or eight onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, some celery, and if it be to brown, some thick slices of carrots; meat trimmings, or fresh meat bones, a pint and a half of water, or the same quantity of stock, which will make it richer than water will; over the meat lay a sheet of white paper, season and put the pan, with the lid well fastened down and tight, over a moderately hot stove, rather slow. It will require two or three hours, according to its size or quality. The meat and gravy are then put into a colander to drain, but be sure to keep it quite hot, skim the gravy very carefully, and boil it as quick as you can till it thickens; then glaze the meat--and if it has been larded, put it into the oven for a few minutes.

318. Glazing consists in covering meat with a preparation called glaze, which is strong gravy boiled as quick as possible till it thickens, as directed in braising. The glaze is put on with a brush kept for the purpose. Hams, tongues, and stewed beef, may be thus glazed, if thought proper.

319. Blanching is performed by putting the article in cold water over the fire, and when it boils up, take it out and plunge it into cold water, and let it remain till quite cold. This will make it white and plump. Tongues, palates, &c., are said to be blanched, when after long boiling the skin can be easily peeled off.

320. Larding and Forcing. Possess yourself of larding pins of different sizes; cut slices of bacon into bits of proper length, quite smooth; pierce the skin and a very little of the meat with the larding pin, leaving the bacon in; the two ends should be of equal length outwards. Lard in rows the size you think proper. Forcing is nothing more than stuffing fowls, &c., with force meat, which is generally put in between the skin and the flesh.

321. Boning. To bone any bird, the cook should begin first to take out the breast-bone; she will then have sufficient space to remove the back with a sharp small knife, and then she must take out the leg bones. The skin must be preserved whole, and the meat of the leg be pushed inwards.

The best colouring is, perhaps, the following: Half a pound of powdered lump sugar and a table-spoonful of water, put into a clean saucepan, or frying-pan, and set over a slow fire and stirred with a wooden spoon till it is of a fine brown colour, and begins to smoke; then add an ounce of salt, and dilute by degrees with water, till it is of the thickness of soy; boil, take off the scum, and put it into well-corked bottles; or you may, provided you do not wish to keep the above by you, colour your gravies or soups by pounding a tea-spoonful of lump sugar, and putting it into an iron spoon, which hold over a quick fire till the mixture becomes of a dark-brown colour; mix with the soup or gravy while it is hot. Some persons use butter in the first mixture instead of water.

Toasted bread, quite hard and of a deep brown, not burnt, may be put into the boiling gravy, without stirring, and then carefully strain off the gravy without any crumbs of bread in it. You may also colour with flour browned on a flat-iron over the fire. Various flavouring articles serve also the purpose of colouring.

326. To prepare sweet Herbs for keeping.--It is highly desirable, according to the taste and style of living of the family, that preparations of sweet herbs, either in powder, dried bunches (the powder is best,) or in the form of essences and tinctures, be always kept at hand, ready for use. The following is the best way of preparing them:--Gather your herbs, including thyme of the various sorts, marjoram and savoury, sage, mint, and balm, hyssop and pennyroyal, when they are come to full growth, just before they begin to flower; when they must be gathered perfectly free from damp, dust, dirt, and insects. Cut off the roots, and tie the herbs in small bundles. Dry as quick as possible, either in the sun, in a dutch oven before the fire, or in a dry room with a thorough draught. When quite dry, pick off the leaves, and rub them till they are reduced to a fine powder, when bottle close for use. Seeds of parsley, fennel, and celery, should be kept for the purpose of flavouring, when the green herb cannot be obtained.

327. Savoury Soup Powder is compounded of parsley, winter savoury, sweet marjoram, and lemon thyme, of each two ounces; sweet basil, one ounce; verbinia leaves and knotted marjoram, of each half an ounce; celery seed and bay leaves (some leave out the bay leaves,) of each two drachms. Dry in a Dutch oven, thoroughly, but not to scorch; then rub the leaves to a fine powder. The seeds will be best ground, but pounding will do; sift all through a hair sieve, and bottle for use. This is an excellent compound.

328. Curry Powder may be made almost, if not altogether, as good as the Indian, by taking three ounces of coriander seeds; turmeric two or three ounces; black pepper, mustard, and ginger, one ounce of each; allspice and lesser cardamons, half an ounce each, and cumin seed, a quarter of an ounce. Put the ingredients in a cool oven for the night; thoroughly pound and mix together, and close bottle for use. Do not use cayenne in a curry powder.

329. Powder for Ragouts.--A good powder for flavouring ragouts is compounded of salt, one ounce; mustard, lemon peel, and black pepper, ground, of each half an ounce; allspice and ginger, ground, nutmeg, grated, and cayenne pepper, of each a quarter of an ounce. Dry in a Dutch oven before a gentle fire; pound in a mortar, and sift through a hair sieve.

330. Powder for Brown made dishes.--Black pepper and Jamaica, ground, of each half an ounce; nutmeg, grated, half an ounce; cinnamon, in powder, a quarter of an ounce; cloves, one drachm; dry; finely powder and bottle.

331. Powder for White made dishes.--White pepper half an ounce; nutmeg a quarter of an ounce; mace one drachm; dried lemon peel, grated, one drachm.

332. Preserved Orange and Lemon Peels.--Shave the thin skin, without a particle of white, off your superfluous Seville orange and lemon peel; put in a mortar, with a small lump of dried sugar to each peel; beat them well till the rind and sugar be blended together in a kind of marmalade; let the mixture be pressed close in a bottle, with a tea-spoonful of brandy at top, and secure from the air with a cork or bladder. This will be found a better flavouring, and more handy than grating dry rinds.

333. Essences, or Tinctures of Herbs, &c.--Combine their essential oils with good tasteless spirits (which is better than brandy, and much cheaper) in the proportion of one drachm of essential oil to two ounces of spirits; or fill a wide-mouthed bottle with the leaves, seeds, roots, or peel, perfectly dry, then pour over them spirits of wine, vinegar, or wine; keep the mixture steeping in a warm place, not hot, for twelve or fourteen days, when strain and bottle close for use. Bottles with glass stoppers are best. These essences are very handy, and are to be had all the year round.

334. Essence of Anchovies.--Purchase the best anchovies, that have been in pickle about a year. Pound twelve of them in a mortar to a pulp, then put them into a well-tinned saucepan, by the side of the fire, with two table-spoonfuls of best vinegar sherry, or brandy, or mushroom catsup; stir it very often till the fish are melted, then add fifteen grains in weight of the best cayenne pepper; stir it well, then rub it through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon; bottle and cork very tight with the best cork. When the bottle is opened, cork it well again with a new cork, as the least air spoils it. That which remains in the sieve makes a pleasant relish for breakfast or lunch, with bread and butter. If a large quantity is made, press it down in small jars. Cover it with clarified butter, and keep it in a cool place.

335. Anchovy Powder.--Pound the anchovies in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, make them into a paste with the finest flour, dried, roll it into thin cakes; dry them before a slow fire; when quite crisp, pound or grate them to a fine powder, and put into a well-stopped bottle. It will keep good for years, and is a savoury relish sprinkled on bread and butter.

336. Oyster Powder.--Open the oysters carefully, so as not to cut them, except in dividing the gristle from the shells; put them into a mortar; add about two drachms of salt to a dozen oysters, pound them and rub them through the back of a hair sieve, and put them into a mortar again, with as much flour, thoroughly dried, as will make them into a paste; roll it out several times, and lastly, flour it and roll it out the thickness of half a crown, and divide it into pieces about an inch square; lay them in a dutch oven before the fire, take care they do not burn, turn them every half hour, and when they begin to dry, crumble them; they will take about four hours to dry then pound them fine, sift them, and put them into bottles; seal them over.

337. Spirit of mixed Herbs.--Take winter savoury, lemon thyme, sweet basil, and lemon rind, celery seed one drachm, steep them in a pint of spirits of wine. Then drain and bottle the liquor. The herbs, after draining, will keep two or three weeks, and may be used for flavouring.

338. Tincture of Lemon or Seville Orange Peel.--Half fill a wide-mouthed bottle with good spirits; shave the thin rind off the lemon, and put it into the bottle until it is full: it may be either strained off into bottles, or suffered to remain on the rind.

339. Spirits of mixed Spice.--Black pepper one ounce, allspice half an ounce, both finely powdered; nutmeg quarter of an ounce, grated; infuse in a pint of spirits of wine, strain, and bottle.

340. Calf's Head.--Take the half of one, with the skin on; put it into a large stew-pan, with as much water as will cover it, a knuckle of ham, and the usual accompaniments of onions, herbs, &c., and let it simmer till the flesh may be separated from the bone with a spoon; do so, and while still hot cut it into as large a sized square as a piece will admit of; the trimming and half the liquor put by in a tureen; to the remaining half add a gill of white wine, and reduce the whole of that, by quick boiling, till it is again half consumed, when it should be poured over the large square piece, in an earthen vessel, surrounded with mushrooms, white buttoned onion, small pieces of pickled pork, half an inch in breadth, and one and a half in length, and the tongue in slices, and simmered till the whole is fit to serve up; some brown force meat balls are a pretty addition. After this comes from table, the remains should be cut up in small pieces, and mixed up with the trimmings and liquor, which (with a little more wine,) properly thickened, will make a very good mock turtle soup for a future occasion.

341. Hashed Meat.--Cut the meat into slices about the thickness of two shillings, trim off all the sinews, skin, and gristle, put nothing in but what is to be eaten, lay them on a plate ready; prepare your sauce to warm in it, put in the meat, and let it simmer gently till it is thoroughly warm; do not let it boil, as that will make the meat tough and hard.

342. Hashed Beef or Mutton.--One tea-spoonful of Harvey sauce, one of Tomata sauce, the same quantity of any other sauce; pepper, salt, cayenne, half a wine glass of port wine, and a couple of capsicums cut fine; mix with the remains of the gravy of the preceding day, of beef or mutton; if necessary to thicken, add one shake of the flour dredger. This is a good hash.

344. A good Scotch Haggis.--Make the haggis-bag perfectly clean; parboil the draught, boil the liver very well, so as it will grate, dry the meat before the fire, mince the draught and a pretty large piece of beef very small; grate about half of the liver, mince plenty of suet and some onions small; mix all these materials very well together, with a handful or two of the dried meal; spread them on the table, and season them properly with salt and mixed spices; take any of the scraps of beef that are left from mincing, and some of the water that boiled the draught, and make about a quart of good stock of it; then put all the haggis meat into the bag, and that broth in it; then sew up the bag, but be sure to put out all the wind before you sew it quite close. If you think the bag is thin, you may put it in a cloth. If it is a large haggis, it will take at least two hours boiling.

345. Mr. Phillips's Irish Stew.--Take five thick mutton chops, or two pounds off the neck or loin; two pounds of potatoes, peel them, and cut them in halves; six onions, or half a pound of onions, peel and slice them also. First, put a layer of potatoes at the bottom of your stew-pan, then a couple of chops and some of the onions; then again potatoes, and so on, till the pan is quite full; a small spoonful of white pepper, and about one and a half of salt, and three gills of broth or gravy, and two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom catsup; cover all very close in, so as to prevent the steam from getting out, and let them stew for an hour and a half on a very slow fire. A small slice of ham is a great addition to this dish. Great care should be taken not to let it burn.

346. Mutton Chops delicately stewed, and good Mutton Broth.--Put the chops into a stew-pan with cold water enough to cover them, and an onion; when it is coming to the boil, skim it, cover the pan close, and set it over a very slow fire till the chops are tender; if they have been kept a proper time, they will take about three-quarters of an hour very gentle simmering. Send up turnips with them--they may be boiled with the chops; skim well, and then send all up in a deep dish, with the broth they were stewed in.

347. Minced Collops.--Take beef, and chop and mince it very small, to which add some salt and pepper; put this, in its raw state, into small jars, and pour on the top some clarified butter. When intended for use, put the clarified butter into a frying pan, and slice some onions into the pan, and fry them. Add a little water to it, and then put in the minced meat. Stew it well, and in a few minutes it will be fit to serve up.

348. Brisket of Beef, stewed.--This is prepared in exactly the same way as "soup and bouilli."

349. Harricot of Beef.--A stewed brisket cut in slices, and sent up with the same sauce of roots, &c., as we have directed for harricot of mutton, is a most excellent dish, of very moderate expense.

350. Salt Beef, baked.--Let a buttock of beef, which has been in salt about a week, be well washed and put into an earthen pan, with a pint of water; cover the pan tight with two or three sheets of foolscap paper; let it bake four or five hours in a moderately heated oven.

351. Beef baked like red deer, to be eaten cold.--Cut buttock of beef longways, beat it well with a rolling pin, and broil it; when it is cold, lard it, and macerate it in wine vinegar, salt, pepper, cloves, mace, and two or three bay leaves, for two or three days; then bake it in rye paste, let it stand till it is cold, and fill it up with butter; let it stand for a fortnight before it is eaten.

352. Shin or Leg of Beef, stewed.--Have the bone sawed in three or four pieces, and the marrow either taken out, or stopped with paste. Cover with cold water, and having skimmed it clean, add onions, carrot, celery, sweet herbs, and spice. Let the whole stew very gently three hours and a half or four hours. Meanwhile, cut up the red part of two or three carrots, two or three turnips, peel two dozen button onions, boil them, and drain them dry; as the onions and turnips should retain their shape, and the carrots require longer to boil, they ought to be put in a quarter of an hour earlier. Do not let them be over-done. When the meat is quite tender, take it out with a slice, and strain the soup. Thicken the soup with a small tea-cup full of flour, mixed either with a little butter, or the fat of the soup. Stir this well in till it boils, and is perfectly smooth; if not, it must be strained through a tamis, and carefully skimmed, and then returned to warm the vegetables. The meat may be served whole, or scraped from the bones, and cut in pieces. Season the soup with pepper, salt, and a wine glass each of port wine and mushroom catsup, and pour over the meat; or, if necessary, put the meat in a stew-pan to warm. Serve all together. Curry may be added, if approved--also, force meat balls.

353. Hare.--Instead of roasting a hare, stew it; if young, plain--if an old one, lard it. The shoulders and legs should be taken off, and the back cut in three pieces; these, with a bay leaf, half a dozen eschalots, one onion pierced with four cloves, should be laid with as much good vinegar as will cover them, for twenty-four hours in a deep dish. In the meantime, the head, the neck, ribs, liver, heart, &c., should be browned in frothed butter, well seasoned; add half a pound of lean bacon, cut in small pieces, a large bunch of herbs, a carrot, and a few allspice. Simmer these in a quart of water till it is reduced to about half the quantity, when it should be strained, and those parts of the hare which have been infused in the vinegar, should (with the whole contents of the dish) be added to it, and stewed till quite done. Those who like onions may brown half a dozen, stew them in part of the gravy, and dish them round the hare. Every ragoût should be dressed the day before it is wanted, that any fat which has escaped the skimming spoon may with ease be taken off when cold.

354. Jugged Hare.--Wash it very nicely, cut it up in pieces proper to help at table, and put them into a jugging pot, or into a stone jar, just sufficiently large to hold it well; put in some sweet herbs, a roll or two of rind of a lemon, and a fine large onion with five cloves stuck in it; and if you wish to preserve the flavour of the hare, a quarter of a pint of water; if you are for a ragoût, a quarter of a pint of claret or port wine, and the juice of a lemon. Tie the jar down closely with a bladder, so that no steam can escape; put a little hay in the bottom of the saucepan, in which place the jar; let the water boil for about three hours, according to the age and size of the hare (take care it is not over-done, which is the general fault in all made dishes,) keeping it boiling all the time, and fill up the pot as it boils away. When quite tender, strain off gravy from fat, thicken it with flour, and give it a boil up; lay the hare in a soup dish, and pour the gravy to it. You may make a pudding the same as for roast hare, and boil it in a cloth, and when you dish your hare, cut it in slices, or make force meat balls of it for garnish. For sauce, currant jelly. Or a much easier and quicker way of proceeding is the following: Prepare the hare as for jugging; put it into a stew-pan with a few sweet herbs, half a dozen cloves, the same of allspice and black pepper, two large onions, and a roll of lemon peel; cover it with water; when it boils, skim it clean, and let it simmer gently till tender (about two hours;) then take it up with a slice, set it by a fire to keep hot while you thicken the gravy; take three ounces of butter and some flour, rub together, put in the gravy, stir it well, and let it boil about ten minutes; strain it through a sieve over the hare, and it is ready.

355. Stewed Rump Steaks.--The steaks must be a little thicker than for broiling; let them all be the same thickness, or some will be done too little, and others too much. Put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan, with two onions; when the butter is melted, lay in the rump steaks, let them stand over a slow fire for five minutes, then turn them, and let the other side of them fry five minutes longer. Have ready boiled a pint of button onions; they will take from half an hour to an hour; put the liquor they were boiled in to the steaks; if there is not enough of it to cover them, add broth or boiling water to make up enough for that purpose, with a dozen corns of black pepper, and a little salt, and let them simmer very gently for about an hour and a half, and then strain off as much of the liquor (about a pint and a half,) as you think will make the sauce. Put two ounces of butter in a stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in as much flour as will make it into a stiff paste; some add thereto a table-spoonful of claret or port wine, the same of mushroom catsup, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper; add the liquor by degrees, let it boil up for fifteen minutes, skim it, and strain it; serve up the steaks with the onions round the dish, and pour the gravy over it.

356. Broiled Rump Steaks with Onion Gravy.--Peel and slice two large onions, put them into a quart stew-pan, with two table-spoonfuls of water; cover the stew-pan close, set it on a slow fire till the water has boiled away, and the onions have got a little browned, then add half a pint of good broth, and boil the onions till they are tender; strain the broth from them, and chop them very fine, and season with mushroom catsup, pepper, and salt; put the onion into it, and let it boil gently for five minutes, pour it into the dish, and lay it over a broiled rump steak. If instead of broth you use good beef gravy, it will be superlative. Stewed cucumber is another agreeable accompaniment to rump steaks.

357. Bubble and Squeak.--For this, as for a hash, select those parts of the joint that have been least done; it is generally made with slices of cold boiled salted beef, sprinkled with a little pepper, and just lightly browned with a bit of butter, in a frying-pan; if it is fried too much, it will be hard. Boil a cabbage, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it small; take the beef out of the frying-pan, and lay the cabbage in it; sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it; keep the pan moving over the fire for a few minutes, lay the cabbage in the middle of the dish, and the meat round it.

358. Hashed or minced Veal.--To make a hash, cut the meat into slices: to prepare minced veal, mince it as fine as possible (do not chop it); put it into a stew-pan with a few spoonfuls of veal or mutton broth, or make some with the bones and trimmings, as ordered for veal cutlets, a little lemon peel minced fine, a spoonful of milk or cream; thicken with butter and flour, and season it with salt, a table-spoonful of lemon pickle or basil wine, or a pinch of curry powder. If you have no cream, beat up the yolks of a couple of eggs with a little milk; line the dish with sippets of lightly toasted bread.

359. To make an excellent Ragoût of cold Veal.--Either a neck, loin, or fillet of veal will furnish this excellent ragoût with a very little expense or trouble. Cut the veal into handsome cutlets; put a piece of butter, or clean dripping, into a frying-pan; as soon as it is hot, flour and fry the veal of a light brown; take it out, and if you have no gravy ready, put a pint of boiling water into the frying-pan, give it a boil up for a minute, and strain it in a basin while you make some thickening in the following manner: Put about an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; as soon as it melts, mix it with as much flour as will dry it up; stir it over the fire for a few minutes, and gradually add to it the gravy you made in the frying-pan; let them simmer together for ten minutes; season it with pepper, salt, a little mace, and a wine-glassful of mushroom catsup or wine; strain it through a tamis to the meat, and stew very gently till the meat is thoroughly warmed. If you have any ready boiled bacon, cut it in slices, and put it to warm with the meat.

367. There are many methods recommended for carrying this operation into effect. The following in our opinion are the best:--Before salting, particularly in the summer, all the kernels, pipes, and veins, should be taken out of the meat, or all your salting will be in vain. The meat will not keep. The salt should be rubbed thoroughly and equally into every part of the meat, and great care should be taken to fill the holes with salt, where the kernels have been taken out, and where the butcher's skewers have been stuck. It is also necessary, directly meat comes into the house for salting, to wipe away any slime or blood that may appear. In very hot weather meat will not hang a single day without being liable to fly-blows; if once tainted, it will not take the salt. In winter it is best to let it hang for two or three days, but take care that it does not get frost-bitten. The salt should be heated in very cold weather before it is applied to the meat.

368. It is a good plan to slightly sprinkle meat with salt a day or two before finally salting; this will draw out the blood. But the first brine should be thrown away, as it is apt to injure butcher's meat, and always has a tendency to make bacon rusty. The meat should be wiped thoroughly clean after the preparatory salting.

369. Different quantities of salt are recommended; a pound of salt is sufficient for a middling sized joint; for a round of beef of twenty-five pounds, a pound and a half should be rubbed in all at once, though others rub in a little at a time for two or three days; but at any rate it requires to be turned and rubbed every day with the brine. The less salt used the better, providing you use enough to preserve the meat. Too much salt extracts the juices of the meat and makes it tough. Coarse sugar or treacle and bay salt are used by some in the following proportions: Two ounces of bay salt, two ounces of sugar, add three-quarters of a pound of common salt. A little saltpetre rubbed in will make the meat red, but is apt to harden it.

370. Meat should not be kept in salt any longer than is necessary to thoroughly cure it. In the course of four or five days it will be ready for dressing; but if intended to be eaten cold, two or three days more will make it keep longer and improve its flavour. Some people let meat lie in salt for a fortnight, and perhaps this is necessary for large hams and thick pieces of beef, but much depends upon the quantity of brine. If this be sufficient to cover the one-half of the meat, every time it is turned, less time will be required.

371. Hasty salting is sometimes necessary. When this is the case, rub half the quantity of salt to be used into the meat, which put in a warm place till the time of dressing. Before putting it into the pot, flour a coarse cloth and pack the meat in it; put it into the water when boiling. After it has boiled half of the usual time, that is, when it is half done, take it up, rub in the remainder of the salt and again pack it in a floured cloth: it should boil a little longer than when salted in the usual manner. Some persons simply boil it in very salt water, but the above plan is the best.

372. Flavoured salt meat may be made by pounding some sweet herbs, onions, &c., with salt, and it may be rendered still more relishing by the addition of a little zest, or savoury spice.

373. Pickling meat is effected as follows: there are other plans, but we prefer the method given in the Encyclopædia Britannica:--Six pounds of salt, one pound of sugar, and four ounces of saltpetre, boiled in four gallons of water, skimmed and allowed to cool, forms a very strong pickle, which will preserve any meat completely immersed in it. To effect this complete immersion, which is essential, either a flat stone or heavy board must be laid on the meat. The same pickle may be used repeatedly, provided it be boiled up occasionally with additional salt to restore its strength, diminished by the combination of part of the salt with the meat, and by the detection of the pickle by the juices of the meat extracted. By boiling, the albumen (which would cause the pickle to spoil) is coagulated, and rises in the form of scum, which must be carefully removed. Albumen is so called because it resembles in appearance the white of an egg, and of whose nature it also partakes. It is a constituent in all meat. Pickled meat gains in weight; salted in the common way, that is, not immersed or covered with brine, it loses about one and a half in sixteen.

374. Jerked beef is made by cutting it into thin pieces, or slices, and dipping them into sea or salt water, and then drying them quickly in the sun. In the West Indies, where they can scarcely cure meat in the ordinary way on account of the excessive heat, they adopt the above method of preserving beef.

375. Curing bacon is effected by various methods: some use common salt only, which answers the purpose very well, but others consider a mixture of salt and sugar or molasses to be preferable. The proportions are, common salt, bay salt, and coarse sugar, or molasses, two pounds each, saltpetre six ounces. The quantity used must depend upon the size of the hog to be cured. The blood should be thoroughly drawn out of the meat by common salt before finally dressed for curing, and the dirty brine thrown away. Finely powder and dry the salt, and let it be well rubbed in; the heavier the hand employed, the sooner the bacon will be cured. The flitches must be always kept with the rind downwards. The top flitch must be put every day for a month at the bottom--thus changing them all round. Some use bay salt only, others rub in a little saltpetre, for the purpose of reddening the lean of the bacon (see Drying, No. 381.)

376. Hams.--The modes of curing hams are various in different parts of the country, and by different people. We give the following: For three hams about twenty pounds each, take common salt and coarse sugar two pounds each, bay salt and saltpetre six ounces each, black pepper four ounces, juniper berries two ounces; mix together, and grind or pound, and dry before the fire; rub this mixture, while warm, into the hams, and then add as much common salt as will entirely cover them. In two or three days pour over the hams a pound of molasses; baste them with the pickle every day for a month, putting each day the top ham to the bottom; drain and smoke (see Drying and Smoking;) or, take two quarts of water, two pounds of salt, four ounces of saltpetre, one pound of bay salt, two pounds of molasses; boil all together, and when cold pour the mixture over the ham, but do not rub them. To give a smoky flavour, some persons recommend a pint of tar water to be poured into the brine! This pickle is sufficient for two moderately sized hams, they will require to be about three weeks in pickle, when they must be drained, and sewed up separately in coarse hessens wrappers, and hung to dry in a kitchen of moderate temperature, or laid upon a bacon rack.

377. Yorkshire hams are completely covered with the following pickle, in quantities according to the meat to be cured: Common salt a peck; bay salt, five pounds; saltpetre and sal prunel, of each two ounces, all pounded together. Having thoroughly cleansed your hands, rub thoroughly in this mixture, and lay the rest over them; after lying three days, take out the meat and boil the pickle in two gallons of water; put in as much common salt as will make the pickle bear an egg; skim and strain: when cold, pour it over the meat, and let it lie a fortnight. Yorkshire hams are not smoked.

378. Tongues, chines, chops, &c.--The pickle first given in 376 will answer for tongues, &c. A neat's tongue will take a fortnight to pickle, a calf's or hog's tongue eight or ten days, a small chine ten days, or not more than a fortnight; a large one, nearly three weeks.

379. Mutton hams.--The following is a good pickle for mutton hams and tongues of all kinds. Take equal parts of common salt, bay salt, and coarse sugar; to every pound of this mixture add of saltpetre and sal prunel one ounce each, and of black pepper, allspice, juniper berries, and coriander seed, half an ounce each; bruise or grind altogether, and dry before the fire; apply this mixture hot.

380. Hung or Dutch beef.--Hang a fine tender round of beef, or the silver part only, for three or four days, or as long as the weather will allow; then rub it well with the coarsest sugar (about a pound will do,) two or three times a day, for three or four days. The sugar having thoroughly penetrated the meat, wipe it dry, and apply the following mixture: Four ounces each of common salt and bay salt, two ounces each of saltpetre and sal prunel, one ounce each of black pepper and allspice. Rub them well in every day for a fortnight; then roll up the beef tight, and bind or sew it in a coarse cloth, and smoke it. (See 381, &c.) Boil a part as it may be wanted, press it with a heavy weight till cold, when it may be grated for sandwiches. It will keep a long time.

382. Dried or kippered salmon is prepared by cleaning (without washing,) and scaling the fish; split and remove the bone; pickle for two or three days with equal parts of salt and sugar, and a little black pepper and saltpetre; keep it well pressed down; when cured, stretch each fish with a piece of stick, and dry it either with smoke or otherwise.

383. Herrings, &c. must be wiped clean; salted as above; in twenty-four hours take them out of the salt, run a stick through the eyes, and hang them in rows over an old cask half filled with dry sawdust, in the midst of which thrust a red-hot iron.

384. Haddock, cod, and ling, &c. are usually split down the middle for salting let them lie two or three days in equal parts of salt and sugar; then stretch on sticks, and dry in the sun or artificially.

386. In using this acid for curing hams, mix about two table-spoonfuls in the pickle for a ham of ten or twelve pounds, and when taken out of the pickle, previous to being hung up, paint the ham over with the acid by means of a brush; a little more acid is required for neats' tongues. Dried salmons brushed twice with the acid, will be more effectually cured than by smoking them for two months.

389. To cure herrings, cod, haddock, and other fish, with pyroligneous acid, salt them a little for a day or two--not more--less may do; then dry them well with a coarse cloth, then dip them into the acid, and dry in the air; when dry, repeat the process a few times, suspending them like the manufacturer of candles. The red colour in dried salmons and herrings is generally attributed to nitre (saltpetre;) very frequently tobacco dissolved in a fluid not very agreeable (urine) is employed for the purpose of reddening, in Holland. Pyroligneous acid will not answer for pickling, being too strong when diluted with water it loses its virtue. The vinegar of the shops may be advantageously improved by the addition of this acid.

392. Boerhave says, that the best method of keeping flesh in summer, is to steep it in Rhenish wine, with a little sea salt, by which means it may be preserved a whole season.

394. For keeping meat from becoming putrescent, recipes, of which the following is the substance, were published some years ago, and sold at the enormous price of seven shillings and sixpence: Take a quart of the best vinegar, two ounces of lump sugar, two ounces of salt; boil these ingredients together for a few minutes, and when cold, anoint with a brush the meat to be preserved. For fish, the mixture is directed to be applied inside; for poultry, inside and out. Of course both fish and poultry are to be cleansed.

395. Pyroligneous acid, either with or without the sugar and salt, would be much more effectual; besides, it possesses, to a certain extent, the property of not only preventing putrescency, but of curing it when commenced.

396. Brazilian Stew.--Take shin or leg of beef; cut it into slices or pieces of two or three ounces each; dip it in good vinegar, and, with or without onions, or any other flavouring or vegetable substances, put it in a stew-pan, and without water; let it stand on a stew-hearth, or by a slow fire, for two three, or four hours, when it will be thoroughly done, will have yielded plenty of gravy, and be as "tender as a chicken." Great care must be taken that the heat is sufficiently moderate. This is the usual mode of dressing all descriptions of meat in the Brazils. We have recommended leg or shin of beef, because it in fact makes the richest and most nutritious stew, and may be had at a low price; but any other meat or fish may be so dressed. The only objection to it is, that it is too rich; but this may be remedied by eating less of it, and a greater quantity of potatoes or other vegetables. A pound and a half of leg of beef, without bone, so dressed, and plenty of potatoes, will dine four people luxuriously.

397. Alamode Beef of the shops, which, when well dressed, is very delicious, is made by thickening the gravy of beef that has been very slowly stewed as above with vinegar, and flavoured with bay leaves, allspice, &c., according to taste. The following process will be found a good one: cut your beef, mouse buttock, or sticking pieces, or legs (legs are the best), &c., into pieces of two or three ounces each; put into a deep stew-pan some beef dripping, to keep the meat from sticking to the bottom; mince onions, which mix with the beef, previously dipped in vinegar, and put the mixture into a deep stew-pan. When quite hot, flour the meat with a dredger, and continue to do so till you have stirred in enough to thicken it; then cover it with boiling water, which should be put in by degrees, stirring it together with a wooden spoon. Flavour with black pepper, allspice, bay leaves, champignons, truffles, mushrooms, &c., according to taste; but allspice, black pepper, and salt, will answer every useful purpose. Let it stew as slowly as possible for four or five hours. We can testify from experience that our Brazilian stew and beef alamode are cheap and delicious dishes.

410. Cauliflowers.--Take off the outer leaves; round such as are young, leave just one leaf; put them with some salt into boiling water; boil according to size, from fifteen to twenty minutes; try the stalk with a fork; when the stalk feels tender, and the fork is easily withdrawn, the flower is done; take up instantly, with a wire ladle. Both brocoli and cauliflower, unless boiled till they are tender, are neither pleasant to the taste, nor wholesome to the body; but over-boiling will break and spoil them. Sauce, melted butter.

411. Brocoli.--Choose close firm heads, nearly of a size. Put them into boiling water with salt; allow them plenty of room in boiling, or they will break; and boil them fast, or they will lose their colour. They will take from ten minutes to half an hour, according to the size of the heads. When the stalks are tender, which you can know by putting a fork up the middle of the stalk, they are done. Take them up with a wire ladle, that the water may run off without bruising the heads. Serve on a buttered toast. Sauce, melted butter.

412. Cabbage.--Large full-grown cabbage and savoys will take half an hour or more in boiling. Strip all the outside leaves till you come to the white quick grown ones; then shave the stocks of the leaves that are left on, and score the stalk a little way up. Drain them carefully when boiled, and serve them on a drainer.

413. Young Coleworts and Sprouts--Do not be too saving in trimming sprouts, as harsh or bad leaves will spoil a whole dish. They will take from ten minutes to a quarter of an hour in boiling. Be careful in draining, so as not to spoil the shape of the heads.

Cold cabbage may be fried and served with fried beef. It will require a little bit of butter, a little good gravy, and a little pepper and salt. Shake it about well, and let it remain no longer in the pan than is necessary to make it hot through.

414. Red Cabbage.--This is sometimes stewed, for eating with bouilli beef. Take a small red firm cabbage; wash, pick, and cut i in slices half an inch thick; then pick it to pieces leaf by leaf. Make half a pint of melted butter, in a saucepan large enough to contain the whole. Shake the cabbage from the water that hangs about it, and put it to the melted butter, with a tea-cup full of good gravy, an onion, sliced, and pepper, salt, and cayenne. Let it stew half an hour or more, keeping the saucepan close shut. When quite tender, add a glass of vinegar; let it just boil up; then serve.

415. Spinach.--Pick leaf by leaf, wash it in three waters, put a little salt in the boiling water, boil it very quickly, and keep it under the water; seven or eight minutes will be sufficient to boil it; strain it on the back of a sieve, and press it as dry as possible between two plates; spread it on a dish, and score it crossways, in squares of an inch and a half, or two inches. Spinach is often served with poached eggs and buttered toast, or slices of fried bread. It is sometimes stewed in the following manner:--When it has boiled five minutes, strain and press it, and put it in a small stew-pan, the bottom just covered with rich boiling gravy; add a bit of butter, a little pepper, salt and nutmeg, and two table-spoonsful of cream; stew it five minutes.

416. Vegetable Marrow or Gourd.--Gather the fruit when the size of an egg; put it into boiling water, with a little salt; boil it until it is tender, which will be in about half an hour; cut it in slices half an inch thick; lay it on buttered toast; sprinkle it with pepper and salt; pour melted butter over it. If the fruit has seeds in it, the seedy part must be scooped out, but they are not so good in this state. The fruit may be cut in slices raw, and fried in butter, and served with melted butter and vinegar.

417. Turnips.--Put them into boiling water, with a little salt; when tender, take them up and drain the water from them; they will take from half an hour to an hour boiling. If for mashing, boil them a little longer. If they are lumpy or stringy, rub them through a colander, then put them into the saucepan, with an ounce of butter, a spoonful of cream, a little pepper and salt; stir them well till the butter is melted, and the whole well mixed.

418. Green Peas.--Peas do not require much water to boil them in. Before you put the peas into the boiling water, throw in a lump of sugar and a little salt; boil a few tops of mint with them. If they are young and fresh, they will not take more than ten minutes to a quarter of an hour; if not very young, they will require from twenty minutes to half an hour. Chop up the mint to garnish; stir a lump of butter with them in the dish, and a little pepper and salt.

419. To stew Peas.--Young peas are best for this purpose; but stewing is the best way of preparing old ones. To a quart of peas allow a quart of gravy; put them in when the gravy boils, with three lumps of sugar, and a little pepper and salt; stew till the peas are quite tender, then thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour. They may be stewed without gravy; thus, to a quart of peas allow a lettuce, two or three tops of mint, and an onion, cut up and washed; the water that hangs round the lettuce will be sufficient; add pepper, salt, and sugar, as above; stew very gently for two hours; then beat up an egg, and stir in with an ounce of butter.

420. Carrots.--Wash them well before you put them into the pot. They are best boiled with meat which they do not injure. If they are young they will boil in twenty minutes or half an hour; large old ones will take two hours to boil them tender; do not quarter carrots to boil--it renders them tasteless. If they are young, leave on a little of the top, and rub them with a coarse cloth; old ones are best rubbed after they are boiled; the skin comes from them more easily. Never scrape carrots--if they are rough, brush them. Sauce, melted butter.

421. Windsor Beans.--Young beans are best when the eyes are of a green colour; when the eyes are dark, they are old and eat strong; young beans will boil from twenty minutes to half an hour. Put them into plenty of boiling water, and a spoonful of salt; if you boil them after they become tender, the skins will shrivel; boil a large bunch of parsley with them; chop some for parsley and butter. Stir a lump of butter with them, and put a little parsley in the dish for garnish.

422. French or Kidney Beans.--The smooth or dwarf beans come in earliest, but the scarlet runners are considered the best; choose them young and nearly of a size, top and tail them, slit them down the middle and cut across. If they are old, take the skin from each side; put them in boiling water with some salt; boil them fast from ten minutes to a quarter of an hour; stir with them a lump of butter. Sauce, melted butter.

423. Harricot Beans are the seeds of French beans, full grown; they are sometimes called colly beans. Stew them in gravy, thickened with flour and cream, or they may be fried in butter; stir in a lump of butter when in the dish, a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg, then put in some gravy.

424. Jerusalem Artichokes.--Scrub them clean, and put them into the pot with cold water; throw in a handful of salt, do not let them be covered with water, and leave off the lid; they take about the same time boiling as potatoes. When they are tender they are done; drain them and peel them. Keep them as hot as possible; they may be kept hot by putting them in a dish over another dish in which is hot water. Sauce, melted butter and vinegar, or good thick gravy.

425. Asparagus.--Scrape the stalks clean; tie them in bundles with bass, put them in boiling water with a little salt in it; a tin saucepan is best. If they are fresh, they will be done in ten or twelve minutes; if they are not fresh, they will take a little longer. Take up the moment they are tender, otherwise the heads will be broken, the flavour spoilt, and the colour spoilt; take them up very carefully with a slice, cut the bass, just dip some toasted bread in the liquor in which the asparagus has been boiled, put it on a drainer with a little melted butter, and the heads of the asparagus should be laid inwards round the dish; or they may be laid on a buttered toast.

426. Artichokes.--Soak in cold water; put them into plenty of boiling water, throw in a handful of salt. They require an hour and a half or two hours in boiling. Try them by pulling a leaf; if it draw out easily, they are done; drain them on a sieve, or serve on a vegetable drainer. Sauce, melted butter and vinegar.

427. Red Beet-root.--Boil them whole, put them in boiling water; they require from an hour and a half to three hours in boiling. If for garnish, leave them whole till wanted for use, then scrape and cut up into slices. If for salads, scrape and cut in slices hot, and pour cold vinegar over them.

For stewing, boil them an hour or more, then skin and slice them; season them with pepper and salt, and stew till tender, with young onions, in good gravy: when nearly done, stir in a bit of butter rolled in flour and cream: this is a pleasant and nourishing dish. They may be baked dry in the same manner as potatoes, and eaten with cold butter, salt, and pepper.

428. White Beet-root.--This useful and wholesome plant affords two very pleasing varieties. The leaves stripped from their large fibrous stalks resemble spinach. Put in boiling water and boil them very fast; they take but a few minutes; drain, and press them very dry. Sauce, melted butter. The stalks tie in bundles, dress as asparagus. Sauce, melted butter and vinegar.

429. Herbs to fry to eat with liver, or with rashers and eggs.--Clean and drain four handfuls of young spinach, and two of young lettuce leaves, two handfuls of parsley and one of young onions chopped small; set them over the fire in a stew-pan; put one ounce of butter and some pepper and salt; close the pan up and shake it well, and when it boils, set it on the hob or stove to simmer slowly till the herbs are tender. Serve them on a dish with the liver, or rashers and eggs; lay them on the herbs.

430. Kale, Sea and Scotch.--This last kale is a favourite sort of greens for winter and spring; the heads should not be gathered before November. These will take a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes fast boiling; put them into boiling water. The sprouts, which in spring are very abundant, will boil in a few minutes. Sauce, melted butter.

Sea Kale is boiled tied up in bunches, like asparagus. It is eaten with rich gravy, or thick melted butter, and may be served on toasted bread.

431. Celery makes an excellent addition to salads; it also gives an agreeable flavour to soups and sauce, and is sometimes stewed as an accompaniment to boiled or stewed meat. Wash six or eight heads, and take off the outer leaves; cut the heads up in bits three or four inches long. Stew them till tender in half a pint of veal broth, or white gravy; then add two spoonsful of cream and an ounce of butter rolled in flour, season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and simmer the whole together. The leaves will do to flavour soup that is to be strained.

432. Mushrooms.--The large flap mushrooms are excellent broiled. Have a very clear fire; make the bars of the gridiron very clean and rub them with mutton suet to prevent them from sticking, a few minutes will broil them. When they steam out, sprinkle them with pepper and salt; have ready a very hot dish, and when they are taken up, lay a bit or two of butter under and over each. To stew them, put them in a small saucepan with pepper and salt, a bit of butter and a spoonful or two of gravy of roast meat or cream; shake them about, and when they boil they are done.

433. Morels resemble mushrooms in their growth and many other respects, and are usually dressed in the same manner. It is not possible, however, to make catsup from them, which shows that they do not possess the same qualities as mushrooms. For a stew or ragoût of morels, take off their stalks; split them, if large, into two or three pieces; wash them and put them into a basin of warm water, and cleanse them from the sand, &c.; then blanch, drain and put them into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter and some lemon juice. Moisten, after a few turns in the stew-pan, with either brown or white sauce. There are various other modes of dressing them, but as morels are not much eaten in this country, the above may suffice. Morels are of a higher and finer flavour in Eastern countries than here.

434. Truffles.--These are a very curious description of vegetables; they grow under ground, no part of the plants ever being seen on the surface. It is like the mushroom kind, a species of fungus, and is propagated by seed which is nurtured by the decaying of the old plant. They are found about ten inches below the surface of the earth, dogs being trained to discover them by their scent. The truffle has a very rich, tart, and high flavour when fresh and in season, but loses it when dried, or out of season. They are not very common in America, but they are found in great quantities in France and Italy. A writer in Rees's Cyclopædia informs us, that "truffles are generally in seed about August, when they are of a fine high flavour and agreeable smell; continue good till the beginning of winter, and sometimes as late as March; but those gathered between March and July are small, white, and of a poor flavour. The same authority, in the same article, intimates that truffles are tenderest and best in spring, though easiest found in autumn; the wet swelling them and the thunder and lightning disposing them to throw out their scents: hence by the ancients they were called thunder-roots. Hogs are fond of them; hence the common people call them swine-bread." It is now, the editor may observe, a well-established fact, that truffles are not good after March, or before August. They require a great deal of washing and brushing, in several waters, before they can be applied to culinary purposes. When fresh and fine they are very rich, and are a very delicious addition to some dishes. They may be, and frequently are, stewed like mushrooms, and prepared in other ways, and eaten by themselves.

435. Cucumbers may be stewed in the same way as celery, with the addition of some sliced onions; or the cucumbers and onions may be first floured and fried in butter; then add the gravy, and stew till tender; skim off the fat.

436. Parsnips.--Clean and dress just the same as carrots, they require boiling from one hour to two, according to their size and freshness; they should be drained well, and set on the hob in a dry saucepan to steam; they are sometimes mashed with butter, pepper, salt, and cream, or milk, the same as turnips; they are eaten alone, or with salt beef or salt pork. Sauce, melted butter and vinegar.

437. In our directions for dressing vegetables, we speak lastly of potatoes--not because the cooking of this every-day food is of the least importance, but because, on the contrary, it is of the greatest. There are few persons, simple as the process may appear to be, who can cook potatoes well with certainty. Potatoes from the same ground, and of the same kind, dressed by the same cook, may come to table one day palatable and nutritious, and the next the very reverse of these qualities. How does this happen? The cook acts upon no principle. By accident the potatoes may be boiled well, and by accident they may be boiled bad: in one word, the boiling of potatoes is, with the generality of cooks, all chance work. A friend of ours, Mr. John Barker, the attorney, no mean judge in such matters, always averred, that a woman who could boil potatoes and melt butter well, was a good cook; he never requires any other proof of the capabilities of a cook. The fact is, those who thoroughly understand the elements of any art or science, find little or no difficulty in what are called the higher branches. It is for this reason that we have, in our little work, dwelt so much upon elementary principles, in preference to filling it up with long receipts, which every body may obtain, but which do not teach any principle of the art of cookery. Dr. Kitchiner observes, that "the vegetable kingdom affords no food more wholesome, more easily procured, easily prepared, and less expensive, than the potatoe." This is perfectly true, and yet how few are there that can boil potatoes properly! In Ireland, as every body knows, potatoes constitute almost entirely the food of the great mass of the people; in Ireland, therefore, necessity must have taught the people the best mode of cooking them. Their process is this: the potatoes, unpeeled, that is with their jackets on, after being washed, are put into a cast-iron pot of cold water, which is placed on the fire. When the water boils, a small quantity of cold water is put into the pot to check the boiling; this is once or twice repeated. When the potatoes are done, or nearly done, the water is poured away from the potatoes, which are again subjected to the fire to let the steam evaporate, and make the potatoes mealy. They are then served up in the usual way, (we are speaking of the tables of the middling classes,) and each person takes as many potatoes as he chooses; he peels them, depositing the skins by the side of his plate. In the course of the dinner the potatoes on the table will become cold, when a fresh supply is ordered, and when furnished, the host calls out to his guest, "a hot potatoe, Sir." Before the dinner is finished, you will have two or three supplies of hot potatoes, and the last, though all from the same pot, are to our taste better than the first. They are all the time kept on the fire; the action of the heat completely evaporates the moisture from the potatoes, and those at the bottom of the iron pot become partially roasted. Such is the Irish mode of dressing potatoes, and if we could reconcile ourselves to the "bother" of peeling them, and to the disagreeable appearance of a table-cloth nearly covered with potatoe skins, there is no doubt that we should consider the Irish way of dressing and serving potatoes the best. The generality of modern cookery books recommend the dressing of potatoes with their skins on, like the Irish, but direct that they should be peeled before sent to the table; this mode spoils the potatoes by cooling them; when so dressed, they should be eaten hot. We recommend that potatoes, excepting when young, for the table, should be always pared, carefully pared, before they are boiled: that they should be put into cold water with salt, and boiled quickly, till they are nearly done; that then the water should be poured off, and the potatoes again subjected to the fire, covered with a close lid, till they are quite done, when the lid ought to be removed, and the moisture evaporated. They may be then mashed, or served whole. The cook should take care to have potatoes pretty much of an equal size, or, if this be not practicable, she should divide the large ones. We ought, however, to add, with regard to peeling potatoes, that most people very fond of this root insist upon it, that you do not get the true flavour if you do not dress it with the skin on. Let it be always remembered, that potatoes differ very much in quality, and that no cook can dress a bad potatoe into a good one.

447. Vinegar for Salads.--Take three ounces each of tarragon, chives, eschalots, savoury, a handful of the tops of balm and mint, all dry and pounded; put these into a wide-mouthed bottle, with a gallon of the best vinegar, cork it close and set it in the sun, and in a fortnight strain it off, and press the herbs to get out all the juice; let it stand a day to settle, and then strain it through a filtering bag.

448. Basil Vinegar or Wine.--Sweet basil is in perfection about the middle of August; gather the fresh green leaves, quite free from stalk, and before it flowers; fill a wide-mouthed bottle with them, fill it with vinegar or wine, and steep them ten days; if you want a very strong essence, strain the liquor, put it on some fresh leaves, and let them steep fourteen days more; strain it and bottle, cork it close; it is a very agreeable addition to cold meat, soups, sauces, and to the mixture generally made for salads. A table-spoonful, when the soup is ready, impregnates a tureen-full with the basil and acid flavours at a very little expense, when fresh basil and lemons are very dear. The flavour of other sweet or savoury herbs may be preserved in the same manner, by infusing them in wine or vinegar.

449. Burnet Vinegar is made exactly in the same way as the above, and imparts the flavour of cucumbers so exactly, when steeped in vinegar, that the nicest palate could not distinguish it from the fruit itself. This is a nice relish to cold meat, salads, &c. Burnet is best in season from Midsummer to Michaelmas.

450. Cress or Celery Vinegar.--Pour over a quart of the best vinegar to an ounce of celery or cress seeds, when dried and pounded; let them steep ten days, shake it every day, then strain and bottle in small bottles.

451. Horse-radish Vinegar.--Pour a quart of best vinegar on three ounces of scraped horse-radish, one drachm of cayenne, and an ounce of shred eschalot; let it stand a week. This is very cheap, and you have an excellent relish for cold beef, salads, &c. Horse-radish is in perfection in November.

452. Garlic, Onion, or Eschalot Vinegar.--Put and chop two ounces of the root, pour over them a quart of the best vinegar, in a bottle, shake it well every day for ten days; then pour off the clear liquor into half-pint bottles. A few drops of the garlic will flavour a pint of gravy, as it is very powerful.

453. Tarragon Vinegar.--Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with fresh gathered tarragon leaves. They should be gathered on a dry day, just before it flowers, between Midsummer and Michaelmas. Pick the leaves off the stalks, and dry them a little before the fire; cover them with the best vinegar, and let them steep fourteen days; then strain them through a flannel jelly-bag till it is fine, then pour it into half-pint bottles, cork them tight, and keep them in a dry place.

454. Elder Flower Vinegar is prepared in the same manner as above, and other herbs also.

455. Green Mint Vinegar is made exactly the same way, and the same proportions, as basil vinegar. In housed lamb season, green mint is sometimes not to be got, it is then a welcome substitute.

456. Camp Vinegar.--Take four table-spoonfuls of soy, a quarter of an ounce of cayenne pepper, six anchovies, bruised and chopped, walnut pickle a quarter of a pint, a clove of garlic shred fine; steep the whole for a month in a quart of the best vinegar, shake it four or five times a week, strain it through a tamis, and put it in half-pint bottles, close corked and sealed, or dipped in bottle cement.

457. Capsicum, Cayenne, or Chili Vinegar.--Pound fifty fresh red chilies, or capsicums, or a quarter of an ounce of cayenne pepper; steep in a pint of the best vinegar for a fortnight.

458. Walnut Catsup.--Take three half sieves of walnut shells put them into a tub, mix them up well with common salt, about a pound and a half. Let them stand six days, frequently beating and washing them; by this time the shells become soft and pulpy; then by banking them up on one side of the tub, raising the tub on the same side, the liquor will run clear off to the other; then take that liquor out. The mashing and banking may be repeated as long as any liquor runs. The quantity will be about three quarts. Simmer it in an iron pot as long as any scum rises; then add two ounces of allspice, two ounces of ginger, bruised, one ounce of long pepper, one ounce of cloves, with the above articles; let it boil slowly for half an hour; when bottled, take care that an equal quantity of spice goes into each bottle; let the bottles be quite filled up, cork them tight, and seal them over. Put them into a cool and dry place, for one year before they are used.

459. Oyster Catsup.--Take fine large fresh oysters, open them carefully, and wash them in their own liquor, to take any particle of shell that may remain, strain the liquor after. Pound the oysters in a mortar, add the liquor, and to every pint put a pint of sherry, boil it up and skim, then add two anchovies, pounded, an ounce of common salt, two drachms of pounded mace, and one of cayenne. Let it boil up, skim it, and rub it through a sieve. Bottle it when cold, and seal it. What remains in the sieve will do for oyster sauce.

460. Cockle and Muscle Catsup.--The same way as oyster catsup.

461. Mushroom Catsup.--The juice of mushrooms approaches the nature and flavour of gravy meat more than other vegetable juices. Dr. Kitchiner sets a high value, and not without reason, upon good mushroom catsup, "a couple of quarts of which," he says, "will save some score pounds of meat, besides a vast deal of time and trouble." The best method of extracting the essence of mushrooms, is that which leaves behind the least quantity of water. In all essences, it is quality, not quantity, to which we ought to look. An excess of aqueous fluid in essences renders them less capable of keeping; while in flavouring sauces, &c. a small quantity is sufficient, so that by this means you do not interfere with the thickness or consistency of the thing flavoured. Mushrooms, that is, field mushrooms, begin to come in about September. There are several varieties of these fungi, and they differ very much, both in their wholesomeness and flavour. The best and finest flavoured mushrooms are those which grow spontaneously upon rich, dry, old pasture land. The following is the mode of making good mushroom catsup, or, as Dr. Kitchiner calls it, "double catsup."

Take mushrooms of the right sort, fresh gathered and full grown, but not maggoty or putrescent; put a layer of these at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle them with salt; then put another layer of mushrooms, sprinkle more salt on them, and so on alternately, mushroom and salt. Let them remain two or three hours, by which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms, and have made them easy to break; then pound them in a mortar, or break them well with your hands; then let them remain in this state for two days, not more, mashing them well once or twice a day; then pour them into a stone jar, and to each quart add an ounce and a half of whole black pepper, and half an ounce of allspice; stop the jar very close, and set it in a saucepan or stew-pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling for two hours at least. Take out the jar, and pour the juice clear from the settlings, through a hair sieve into a clean stew-pan. Let it boil very gently for half an hour; but to make good or double catsup, it should boil gently till the mushroom juice is reduced to half the quantity, or, in other words, till the more aqueous part is evaporated; then skim it well, and pour it into a clean dry jar or jug; cover it close, and let it stand in a cool place till next day, then pour it off as gently as possible (so as not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the jug,) through a tamis, or thick flannel bag, till it is perfectly clear; add a table-spoonful of good unflavoured spirits (brandy is dear and not a whit better than common spirits of wine of equal strength) to each pint of catsup, and let it stand as before. A fresh sediment will be deposited, from which the catsup is to be poured off gently, and bottled in half pints, washed with spirit. Small bottles are best, as they are sooner used, and the catsup, if uncorked often, is apt to spoil. The cork of each bottle ought to be sealed or dipped in bottle cement. Keep it in a dry cool place; it will soon spoil if kept damp. If any pellicle or skin should appear upon it when in the bottle, boil it up again with a few peppercorns. It is a question with us, whether it would not be best to dispense with the spice altogether, and give an addition of spirits. When a number of articles are added to the catsup, such as different spices, garlic, eschalot, anchovy, &c. &c., the flavour of the mushroom is overpowered, and it ceases to be, properly speaking, mushroom catsup.

462. Mushroom Catsup without Spice is made thus:--Sprinkle a little salt over your mushrooms. Three hours after, mash them; next day, strain off the liquor, and boil it till it is reduced to half. It will not keep long, but an artificial mushroom bed will supply sufficient for this, the very best of mushroom catsup, all the year round.

463. Mushroom Powder may be made of the refuse of the mushrooms, after they have been squeezed, by drying them well in a dutch oven, or otherwise, and then reducing them to powder. If the mushrooms themselves are dried and pounded, the powder will be much stronger. Tincture or essence of mushrooms, we apprehend, might be made, by steepng dried mushrooms in spirits.

464. Clarified Butter.--Put the butter in a clean saucepan over a very clear, slow fire, and when it is melted, carefully skim off the butter-milk, which will swim on the top; let it stand for a minute or two for the impurities to sink to the bottom, then pour the clear butter through a sieve into a basin, leaving the sediment at the bottom of the pan.

465. Burnt Butter.--Put two ounces of fresh butter into a frying-pan; when it becomes a dark brown colour, add a table-spoonful and a half of good vinegar and a little salt and pepper. This is used for sauce to boiled fish or poached eggs.

466. Oiled Butter.--Put two ounces of fresh butter into a sauce-pan, melt it gradually till it comes to an oil, and pour it off quietly from the dregs. This will supply the place of olive oil.

467. To clarify Dripping.--Be careful that no cinders or ashes fall into the dripping-pan, and empty the well before the meat is salted or floured, as the dripping will be more valuable. The Nottingham ware are the best vessels for keeping dripping in; where much dripping is made, however, keep one general receiving pot; do not put in seasoned dripping, or dripping of game and poultry; this should be kept by itself; it answers very well to baste similar articles again, or it makes very good common crust for meat pies, or for frying; it is not fit for delicate pastry. The cook will find at the bottom of the receiving pot, after it has stood a few days, some gravy which may be useful to make gravy, and if not removed will spoil the colour of the dripping; then put the dripping into a saucepan over a clear slow fire, at a good distance; when it is nearly boiling skim it well, then let it boil, and immediately put it aside; when cool, and a little settled, pour it steadily through a sieve into the pan; this is very nice dripping for pastry. What remains may be put into the receptacle of seasoned dripping, or kept by itself, and will do for basting meat.

In this manner the fat that settles on the top of stews and boils and soups may be clarified and turned to use. Remove the fat before you add the vegetables or seasoning. Nothing makes a lighter piecrust than this sort of fat. It should be used soon, as the moisture hanging about it will turn it sour.

468. To clarify Suet and Fat.--Take away whatever fat or suet that is not likely to be used off a loin of mutton, loin of veal, or sirloin of beef. An inch thickness of fat may be taken from a loin or neck of mutton, and a good deal of fat from the kidney; then shave it into very thin slices, or chop it up as suet; pick out all veins and skin, then put it into a stone jar or saucepan, and set it in a slow oven, or over a stove till it is melted; then strain it through a hair sieve into jars or pots; when quite cold, tie over the jars. Be careful not to put this or dripping into a warm place.

469. Hog's Lard.--The inside fat or leaf of a pig should be beaten with a lard-beater, or rolling-pin; then put it into a jar or earthen pot, in a large kettle of boiling water, till it is melted; add a little salt and a little rosemary--the last may be left out if not preferred. When melted, pour it into jars or bladders, nicely cleaned. The bits of skins that are left are called crittens, and chopped up with apples or currants to make fritters, or a pie. Lard is frequently melted in a brass kettle over a slow fire. It is better to surround it with water.

470. Clarified Sugar is merely brought to a syrup in the following manner:--Break up the sugar in large lumps, and allow a pint of water to every two pounds of sugar: but whatever quantity is employed, keep out a quarter of a pint cold. Put the sugar and water in the preserving pan, with the white of one egg well beaten, to every two pounds of sugar. When the sugar is dissovled, set it on the fire, and when it boils fast, throw in the quarter of a pint of cold water; this is intended to throw up the scum. When it boils again, take the vessel from the fire and let it stand to settle; then remove all scum, and place it in a hair sieve; what runs through may be returned to the rest: give it another boil, and again settle and skim. It should not be stirred after the sugar is dissolved and syrup begins to warm. In this manner sugar is clarified for jelly which is to be put in glasses.

471. There are three methods of pickling; the most simple is, merely to put the articles into cold vinegar. The strongest pickling vinegar of white wine should always be used for pickles; and for such as are wanted for white pickles, use distilled vinegar, which is as white as water. This method we recommend for all such vegetables as, being hot themselves, do not require the addition of spice, and such as do not require to be softened by heat, such as capsicums, chili, nasturtiums, button onions, radish-pods, horse-radish, garlic, and eschalots. Half fill the jars with best vinegar, fill them up with the vegetables, and tie down immediately with bladder and leather. One advantage of this plan is, that those who grow nasturtiums, radish-pods, and so forth, in their own gardens, may gather them from day to day when they are exactly of the proper growth. They are very much better if pickled quite fresh, and all of a size, which can scarcely be obtained if they be pickled all at one time. The onions should be dropped in the vinegar as fast as peeled; this secures their colour. The horse-radish should be scraped a little outside, and cut up in rounds half an inch deep. Barbaries for garnish; gather fine full bunches before they are quite ripe; pick away all bits of stalk and leaf and injured berries, and drop them in cold vinegar; they may be kept in salt and water, changing the brine whenever it begins to ferment: but the vinegar is best.

472. The second method of pickling is that of heating vinegar and spice, and pouring them hot over the vegetables to be pickled, which are previously prepared by sprinkling with salt, or immersing in brine. It is better not to boil the vinegar, by which process its strength is evaporated. Put the vinegar and spice into a jar, bung it down tightly, tie a bladder over, and let it stand on the hob, or on a trivet by the side of the fire, for three or four days, well shaken three or four times a day; this method may be applied to gherkins, French beans, cabbage, brocoli, cauliflowers, onions, and so forth.

473. The third method of pickling is when the vegetables are in a greater or less degree done over the fire. Walnuts, artichokes, artichoke bottoms, and beet-roots, are done thus, and sometimes onions and cauliflowers.

474. Gherkins or young Cucumbers should be the size of a finger; if smaller they have not attained their flavour, if much larger they are apt to be seedy; put them in unglazed stone jars; cover them with brine, composed of a quarter of a pound of salt dissolved in a quart of boiling water, and left to become cold; cover down the jars and put them on the hearth before the fire for two or three days, till they become yellow; then pour off the brine, drain the cucumbers, scald and dry the jars, return the cucumbers and cover them with vinegar: set them again before the fire and let them remain until they become green, which will be in eight or ten days; then pour off the vinegar, and put to them a pickle of fresh vinegar (prepared for gherkins, French beans, and so forth, as directed.) To each quart, black pepper two ounces, ginger one ounce, salt one ounce, cayenne half a drachm, mustard-seed one ounce.

The vinegar in which the cucumbers were greened should be bottled: it will make good sauce for cold meat or salads. Cucumbers are often steeped in vinegar on purpose to give it a flavour.

475. French Beans.--The best sort for this purpose are white-runners. They are very large long beans, but should be gathered quite young, before they are half grown; they may be done in the same way as gherkins, but will not require so long a time, and the first vinegar is not so nice as that from cucumbers.

476. Onions.--Onions should be chosen about the size of marbles, the silver-skinned sort are the best. Prepare a brine and put them into it hot; let them remain one or two days, then drain them, and, when quite dry, put them into clean dry jars, and cover them with hot pickle, in every quart of which has been steeped one ounce each of horse-radish sliced, black pepper, allspice, and salt, with or without mustard-seed. In all pickles the vinegar should always be two inches or more above the vegetables, as it is sure to shrink, and if the vegetables are not thoroughly immersed in pickle they will not keep.

477. Red Cabbage.--Choose fine firm cabbages: the largest are not the best; trim off the outside leaves; quarter the cabbage, take out the large stalk, slice the quarters into a colander, and sprinkle a little salt between the layers; put but a little salt, too much will spoil the colour; let it remain in the colander till next day, shake it well that all the brine may run off; put it in jars, cover it with a hot pickle composed of black pepper and allspice, of each an ounce, ginger pounded, horse-radish sliced, and salt, of each half an ounce to every quart of vinegar (steeped as above directed); two capsicums may be added to a quart, or one drachm of cayenne.

478. Garlic and Eschalots.--Garlic and eschalots may be pickled in the same way as onions.

479. Melons, Mangoes, and long Cucumbers, may all be done in the same manner. Melons should not be much more than half grown; cucumbers full grown, but not overgrown. Cut off the top, but leave it hanging by a bit of rind, which is to serve as a hinge to a box-lid; with a marrow-spoon scoop out all the seeds, and fill the fruit with equal parts of mustard-seed, ground pepper, and ginger, or flour of mustard instead of the seeds, and two or three cloves of garlic. The lid which encloses the spice may be sewed down or tied, by running a white thread through the cucumber, and through the lid, and then, tying it together, cut off the ends. The pickle may be prepared with the spices directed for cucumbers, or with the following, which bears a nearer resemblance to India. To each quart of vinegar put salt, flour of mustard, curry powder, bruised ginger, turmeric, half an ounce of each, cayenne pepper one drachm, all rubbed together with a large glassful of salad oil; eschalots two ounces, and garlic half an ounce, sliced; steep the spice in the vinegar as before directed, and put the vegetables into it hot.

480. Brocoli or Cauliflowers.--Choose such as are firm, yet of their full size; cut away all the leaves, and pare the stalk; pull away the flowers by bunches, steep in brine two days, then drain them; wipe them dry and put them into hot pickle; or merely infuse for three days three ounces of curry powder in every quart of vinegar.

481. Walnuts.--Be particular in obtaining them exactly at the proper season; if they go beyond the middle of July, there is danger of their becoming hard and woody. Steep them a week in brine. If they are wanted to be soon ready for use, prick them with a pin, or run a larding pin several times through them; but if they are not wanted in haste, this method had better be let alone. Put them into a kettle of brine, and give them a gentle simmer, then drain them on a sieve and lay them on fish drainers in an airy place, until they become black, which may be two days; then add hot pickle of vinegar in which has been steeped, in the proportion of a quart, black pepper one ounce, ginger, eschalots, salt, and mustard-seed, one ounce each. Most pickle vinegar, when the vegetables are used, may be turned to use, walnut pickle in particular; boil it up, allowing to each quart four or six anchovies chopped small, and a large table-spoonful of eschalots, also chopped. Let it stand a few days, till it is quite clear, then pour off and bottle. It is an excellent store sauce for hashes, fish, and various other purposes.

482. Beet-roots.--Boil or bake gently until they are nearly done according to the size of the roots they will require from an hour and a half to two hours; drain them, and when they begin to cool peel and cut in slices half an inch thick, then put them into a pickle composed of black pepper and allspice, of each one ounce, ginger pounded, horse-radish sliced, and salt, of each half an ounce to every quart of vinegar, steeped. Two capsicums may be added to a quart, or one drachm of cayenne.

483. Cauliflowers or Brocoli.--Choose firm full-grown cauliflowers and brocoli, cut away all the leaves and pare the stalk, and instead of steeping in cold brine, set them over the fire in cold brine, and let it heat gradually. Just before it comes to boil, take them up in a wire ladle, and spread them on a cloth before the fire; when quite dry, put them into glass or jars, and add cold pickle, according to the second method of making pickle (472).

484. Artichokes.--Gather young artichokes as soon as formed; throw them into boiling brine, and let them boil two minutes; drain them; when cold and dry put them in jars, and cover with vinegar, prepared as method the third, but the only spices employed should be ginger, mace and nutmeg.

485. Artichoke Bottoms.--Get full-grown artichokes and boil them, but not so much as for eating, but just until the leaves can be pulled; remove them and the choke; in taking off the stalk, be careful not to break it off so as to bring away any of the bottom; it would be better to pare them with a silver knife, and leave half an inch of tender stalk coming to a point; when cold, add vinegar and spice, the same as for artichokes.

486. Mushrooms.--Choose small white mushrooms; they should be but one night's growth. Cut off the roots, and rub the mushrooms clean with a bit of flannel and salt; put them in a jar, allowing to every quart of mushrooms one ounce each of salt and ginger, half an ounce of whole pepper, eight blades of mace, a bay leaf, a strip of lemon rind, and a wine-glassful of sherry; cover the jar close, and let it stand on the hob or on a stove, so as to be thoroughly heated, and on the point of boiling; so let it remain a day or two, till the liquor is absorbed by the mushrooms and spices; then cover them with hot vinegar, close them again, and stand till it just comes to a boil; then take them away from the fire. When they are quite cold divide the mushrooms and spice into wide-mouthed bottles, fill them up with the vinegar, and tie them over. In a week's time, if the vinegar has shrunk so as not entirely to cover the mushrooms, add cold vinegar. At the top of each bottle put a tea-spoonful of salad or almond oil; cork close, and dip in bottle resin.

487. Samphire.--On the sea-coast this is merely preserved in water, or equal parts of sea-water and vinegar; but as it is sometimes sent fresh as a present to inland parts, the best way of managing it under such circumstances, is to steep it two days in brine, then drain and put it in a stone jar covered with vinegar, and having a lid, over which put thick paste of flour and water, and set it in a very cool oven all night, or in a warmer oven till it nearly, but not quite boils. Then let it stand on a warm hob for half an hour, and let it become quite cold before the paste is removed; then add cold vinegar, if any more is required, and secure as other pickles.

488. Indian Pickle.--The vegetables to be employed for this favourite pickle, are small hard knots of white cabbage sliced, cauliflowers or brocoli in flakes, long carrots not larger than a finger, or large carrots sliced (the former are far preferable,) gherkins, French beans, small bottom onions, white turnip radishes half grown, radish-pods, eschalots, young hard apples, green peaches when the trees are thinned before the stones begin to form, vegetable marrow not larger than a hen's egg, small green melons, celery, shoots of green elder, horse-radish, nasturtiums, capsicums, and garlic. As all these vegetables do not come in season together, the best method of doing this is to prepare a large jar of pickle at such time of the year as most of the things may be obtained, and add the others as they come in season. Thus the pickle will be nearly a year in making, and ought to stand another year before using, when, if properly managed, it will be excellent, but will keep and continue to improve for years. For preparing the several vegetables, the same directions may be observed as for pickling them separately, only take this general rule--that, if possible, boiling is to be avoided, and soaking in brine to be preferred; be very particular that every ingredient is perfectly dry before putting into the jar, and that the jar is very closely tied down every time that it is opened for the addition of fresh vegetables. Neither mushrooms, walnuts, nor red cabbage, are to be admitted.

For the pickle. To a gallon of the best wine vinegar add salt three ounces, flour of mustard half a pound, turmeric two ounces, white ginger sliced three ounces, cloves one ounce, mace, black pepper, long pepper, white pepper, half an ounce each, cayenne two drachms, eschalots peeled four ounces, garlic peeled two ounces; steep the spice in vinegar on the hob or trivet for two or three days. The mustard and turmeric must be rubbed smooth with a little cold vinegar, and stirred into the rest when as near boiling as possible. Such vegetables as are ready may be put in; when cayenne, nasturtiums, or any other vegetables mentioned in the first method of pickling, come in season, put them in the pickle as they are; any in the second method, a small quantity of hot vinegar without spice; when cold pour it off, and put the vegetables into the general jar. If the vegetables are greened in vinegar, as French beans and gherkins, this will not be so necessary, but will be an improvement to all. Onions had better not be wet at all; but if it be desired not to have the full flavour, both onions, eschalots, and garlic, may be sprinkled with salt in a colander, to draw off all the strong juice; let them lie two or three hours.

The elder apples, peaches, and so forth, to be greened as gherkins. See method the second (472.)

The roots, radishes, carrots, celery, are only soaked in brine and dried. Half a pint of salad oil, or of mustard oil, is sometimes added. It should be rubbed with the flour of mustard and turmeric. It is not essential to Indian pickle to have every variety of vegetable here mentioned; but all these are admissible, and the greater variety the more approved.

501. Perigord Pie.--Make a force meat chiefly of truffles, a small quantity of basil, thyme, parsley, knotted marjoram, the liver of any kind of game (if of woodcocks, that and the entrails, except the little bag), a small quantity of fat bacon, a few crumbs, the flesh of wild or tame fowls, pepper, and salt. Lard the breasts of pheasants, partridges, woodcocks, moor-game, or whatever game you have, with bacon of different sizes; cut the legs and wings from the backs, and divide the backs; season them all with white pepper, a little Jamaica pepper, mace, and salt; make a thick raised crust to receive the above articles; it is thought better than a dish, but either will do. Line it closely with slices of fine fat bacon, then cover it with stuffing, and put the different parts of the game lightly on it, with whole green truffles, and pieces of stuffing among and over it, observing not to crowd the articles, so as to cause them to be underbaked. Over the whole lay slices of fat bacon, and then a cover of thick common crust. Bake it slowly, according to the size of the pie, which will require a long time.

Some are made with a pheasant in the middle whole, and the other game cut up and put round it.

502. Sole Pie.--Split the soles from the bone, and cut the fins close; season with a mixture of salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, and pounded mace, and put them in layers with oysters. They eat excellently. A pair of middling sized ones will do, and half a hundred of oysters; put in the dish the oyster liquor, two or three spoonfuls of broth, and some butter. When the pie is baked, pour in a cupful of thick cream boiled up with a tea-spoonful of flour.

551. To make Pudding Paste.--Beat one egg, mix it with half a pound of suet, well chopped, add one pound of flour; well mix, then add as much cold water as is requisite to bring it to a stiff paste; flour the pie-board and rolling-pin, and beat the paste till it puffs up; roll it out to the size desired, and put in the fruit. If boiled in a basin, it should be well buttered, and the cloth well floured before tying it over. This paste is used for all kind of fresh fruit. A very small quantity of sugar should be put in with the fruit to draw the juice, but not much, or it will become so juicy as to burst the crust. A fruit pudding is lighter boiled in a cloth, but it should be well secured to prevent the juice from escaping. An hour and a half will boil a pudding of this size, if boiled in a cloth; if in a basin, allow another quarter of an hour or twenty minutes. The same paste will do for a roll pudding and meat puddings.

552. Plum Pudding.--To make a rich plum pudding take a pound of marrow, or suet, well chopped, a pound of fine flour dried, eight or ten eggs beaten well; half a nutmeg grated; as much mace, cinnamon, and ginger, all powdered very fine; a pinch of salt; mix these well together, and beat up into a batter; then add one pound of currants, one pound of raisins, stoned and chopped a little; the currants should be rubbed in a cloth, and well picked, or well wash and dry them; two ounces of candied citron peel, or part lemon, and orange, cut small; and two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and cut up in bits; two ounces of loaf-sugar grated; then add these to the batter, and put in a wineglass of brandy; well mix them together. It may be boiled in a buttered basin or mould; if the batter should be too stiff, put a glass of white wine in it. It will take four or five hours boiling. Strew over it powdered loaf-sugar; garnish with sliced lemon. Sauce, containing half a glass of best brandy, a glass of white wine, a little rind of lemon grated, and a little powdered cinnamon, half an ounce of grated loaf-sugar, mixed with an equal quantity of very thick melted butter. It is a good plan to make and keep by you a little of this sauce, and then it is ready at any time. In a bottle containing a pint of sherry, and half a pint of best brandy, add two ounces of loaf-sugar, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of shaved lemon rind, with kernels of apricots, peaches, and nectarines, and steep in a little white wine; when steeped, pour it off clear, and put to the wine and brandy; and add half a quarter of a pint of capillaire. Two table-spoonfuls of this sauce will flavour a boat-full of thick melted butter.

553. A plain family Plum Pudding.--Beat up three eggs, six ounces of suet chopped, a pound of flour, a third part of a pound of raisins, and the same weight of currants; one ounce of candied orange or lemon peel, cut small, half a tea-spoonful of ground allspice, a little salt, two ounces of brown sugar: make a stiff batter with water, and mix the fruit and spice well in. If boiled in a basin, allow three hours and a half; if in a cloth, three hours.

554. A common Plum or Currant Pudding is nothing more than a suet pudding, with the addition of plums, or currants, and allspice.

555. Very Light Plum Pudding.--Mix grated bread, suet, and stoned raisins four ounces each, with two well-beaten eggs three or four spoonfuls of milk, and a little salt: boil four hours. Sauce, a spoonful of brandy, sugar, and nutmeg, in melted butter.

556. National Plum Pudding.--Mix suet, jar raisins, and currants, one pound each, four ounces of crumbs of bread, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one table-spoonful of grated lemon peel, half a nutmeg, a small blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of ginger, and six well-beaten eggs. Boil it five hours.--N. B. If you want to keep plum puddings good for a long time, say some months, hang them in a cold place in the cloth in which they were boiled. When wanted to be used, take them out of the cloth, cover them with a clean one, and warm them through with hot water; they will then be fit for the table.

557. Potatoe Pudding.--Boil mealy potatoes in their skins, according to the rule laid down, skin and mash them with a little milk, pepper, and salt: this will make a good pudding to bake under roast meat. With the addition of a bit of butter, an egg, milk, pepper, and salt, it makes an excellent batter for a meat pudding baked. Grease a baking dish; put a layer of potatoes, then a layer of meat cut in bits, and seasoned with pepper, salt, a little allspice, either with or without chopped onions; a little gravy of roast meat is a great improvement; then put another layer of potatoes, then meat, and cover with potatoes. Put a buttered paper over the top to prevent it from being burnt, and bake it an hour or an hour and a half.

558. Cottage Potatoe Pudding.--Two pounds of mashed potatoes rubbed through a colander, two or three eggs well beaten, two ounces of moist sugar, three-quarters of a pint of milk, a little nutmeg and salt, three ounces of raisins, or currants. It is very good without the fruit, and will take three-quarters of an hour to bake. Omitting the milk and adding three ounces of butter, it makes a very nice cake.

559. For a rich sweet Potatoe Pudding.--Rub a pound of potatoe meal through a colander; add half a pint of cream, nutmeg, cinnamon, and from two to four ounces of loaf-sugar, from two to four ounces of fresh butter or marrow, from three to six eggs, two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and cut, one ounce of candied citron, cut small, a few dried currants, a spoonful of ratafia or brandy: put a crust round the edge of the dish and entirely line the dish: if baked, put in the batter, bake, and when it is brown, it is done. Only substituting potatoe for flour, a very good family plum pudding may be made, but it should be baked.

560. Carrot Pudding.--Grate a raw red carrot; mix with double the weight of bread crumbs, or Naples biscuit, or part of each; to a pound and a half put half a pint of new milk or cream.

561. A Black-cap Pudding.--Rub three table-spoonfuls of flour smooth by degrees into a pint of milk, strain it, and simmer it over the fire until it thickens; stir in two ounces of butter; when cold, add the yolks of four eggs well beaten and strained, and half a pound of currants rubbed and picked; put the latter into a cloth well buttered, tie it tight, and plunge it into boiling water; keep it in motion for five minutes, that it may be well mixed.